Type: Trad, Aid, 210 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Crusher Bartlett, Stu Ritchie, Nov 27, 2013
Page Views: 336 total · 5/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Dec 1, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

p1. Start with three pitons to gain the obvious splitter. All clean aid above here. This crack becomes a left-facing flare 70 feet higher (strenuous, even just aiding) which dumps you out onto a slab; scuttle up ten feet then left to a ledge and belay (#6 Camalot) in right-facing corner (A1+, 5.7, 110').
p2. Up the easy groove above the belay to a ledge under car-size triangular roof. Up the right side, continue up wide crack/flare above (5.9) till it ends. Wander up and left to summit (A1, 5.9, 100').

Location

This is the obvious direttissima line, dropping down the south face like a dropped, umm, thing. About 80 feet left of the start of the regular route.

Protection

gear:
Tomahawks: 3 (small/med)
Cams: 1-2 each yellow Alien to 2.25 inches. 2-3 each 2.5”- largest Camalot.
Valley Giant: 1
No nuts.
Descent. There’s no existing fixed anchor on summit. We left an Alien, just west of the summit and rappelled with two 70m ropes to ground. Ropes were hard to pull from ground. Perhaps better, if slower, is to reverse the regular route and use the descent anchors for the that route when they show up.

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