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Putterman Drops the Soap
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A1+
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Shelbyville
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Mr. Putterman Goes to Washington T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A0 |
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Putterman Drops the Soap T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1+ |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Crusher Bartlett, Stu Ritchie, Nov 27, 2013 |
| Page Views: | 896 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Bartlett on Dec 1, 2013 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
p1. Start with three pitons to gain the obvious splitter. All clean aid above here. This crack becomes a left-facing flare 70 feet higher (strenuous, even just aiding) which dumps you out onto a slab; scuttle up ten feet then left to a ledge and belay (#6 Camalot) in right-facing corner (A1+, 5.7, 110').
p2. Up the easy groove above the belay to a ledge under car-size triangular roof. Up the right side, continue up wide crack/flare above (5.9) till it ends. Wander up and left to summit (A1, 5.9, 100').
p2. Up the easy groove above the belay to a ledge under car-size triangular roof. Up the right side, continue up wide crack/flare above (5.9) till it ends. Wander up and left to summit (A1, 5.9, 100').
Location
This is the obvious direttissima line, dropping down the south face like a dropped, umm, thing. About 80 feet left of the start of the regular route.
Protection
gear:
Tomahawks: 3 (small/med)
Cams: 1-2 each yellow Alien to 2.25 inches. 2-3 each 2.5- largest Camalot.
Valley Giant: 1
No nuts.
Descent. Theres no existing fixed anchor on summit. We left an Alien, just west of the summit and rappelled with two 70m ropes to ground. Ropes were hard to pull from ground. Perhaps better, if slower, is to reverse the regular route and use the descent anchors for the that route when they show up.
Tomahawks: 3 (small/med)
Cams: 1-2 each yellow Alien to 2.25 inches. 2-3 each 2.5- largest Camalot.
Valley Giant: 1
No nuts.
Descent. Theres no existing fixed anchor on summit. We left an Alien, just west of the summit and rappelled with two 70m ropes to ground. Ropes were hard to pull from ground. Perhaps better, if slower, is to reverse the regular route and use the descent anchors for the that route when they show up.
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