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Routes in Superpin

Barber Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Pete Cleveland Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Pete Cleveland, August 8th 1967
Page Views: 1,149 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jeremy Schaar on Nov 29, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

"Touch The Sky" guide book by Paul Piana lists the route route description as follows with () for added comments by submitter; "Start in the saddle (notch) between Tent Peg and Superpin. Step onto a small shelf where there is/was a fixed piton and then continue up onto a small pinnacle like stance. Traverse diagonally up right, (following a rib) across the face to the SouthWest corner and a (small shelf). Then climb strait to the top (crux)." (Hug the spire while moving up on thin feet, no pro.)
Note: the Barber/Cleveland routes share a start.

Location

Barber/Cleveland routes share a start at the notch with TENT PEG.

Protection

No pro. Basically a free solo. No anchors. Needles Style Rap

Photos

- No Photos -
I had a long talk with Dave Groth about the route. He has also tried to repeat the route. He did confirm with me that the route I red pointed is the Pete Cleveland Route. In my book I believe that counts as a Second Ascent. Jun 23, 2016
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Cool story about this route:

sdpb.org/blogs/arts-and-cul…

Not sure about the "unrepeated" part. Jeremy, did you ever figure out if you repeated what Cleveland did, or climbed something new? If you want to meet at Devil's Lake and climb some weekend shoot me a note, and we can swing by Pete's house and you can ask him yourself. Saw him up on the east bluff last weekend. May 14, 2016
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
Hey Dennis, I do believe Jeremy's description is correct for this route. Dec 8, 2013
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Ha. He didn't really answer my question Jeremy, in true Pete fashion. Nor did I get any information about the exact line his route took.

He told some good stories about near death climbing experiences, really hanging it all out there, some in the Black Hills, some not. He also had a great quote that I won't do justice to, about how grades destroy the beauty of climbing, and demean the essence of what climbing is about. Dec 7, 2013
I'm not saying I am correct, but the "Touch The Sky" guide book by Paul Piana lists in the route Route Description;"Start in the saddle between Tent Peg and Superpin. Step onto a small shelf where there is a fixed piton and then continue up onto a small pinnaclelike stance. Traverse diagonally up right across the face to the SouthWest corner and climb strait to the top." This is exactly what I did. If this is not Pete Cleveland's route then the guide book is wrong! I would love to claim a new route and put a couple bolts on it, but I think we should figure this out first! It may be a bit shorter, its been awhile since I was on it. But if the route is where Dennis Horning says it is, you would have to do almost the opposite of what Paul Piana's description is in the guide book. Does Pete C. say the description is wrong? I'm Not arguing but I would like to figure this out!

PS Hey Chris treggE what are Pete's thoughts on the whole superpin thing? Dec 7, 2013
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
I stopped by Pete's house one day and asked him about his route on Superpin versus the Barber route, and also about the bolt removal controversy.

45 minutes later, I had learned that Pete had a Rambler station wagon back in the late 60's - just like the one I happened to be driving that day. I learned nothing about the routes. Fun stories anyway. Dec 6, 2013
Jeremy Schaar,

also you state the climb length as 130 ft. Absurd, the Cleveland route lies on the SE face and is perhaps the shortest way to the summit. I'd say from there, 45 feet of climbing with no protection in sight. Dec 6, 2013
You did not do the Cleveland route, for it lies entirely to the left of the Barber Route. You stated you clipped the Barber bolt. Dec 6, 2013