Heart Shaped Rice Cake
Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches,
Avg: 4 from 2
FA: Zhang Dengjong
> Long Dong (Drag…
> (6) First Cave
A very long route by local standard, and an excellent one at that.
P1: Also known as Valentine's Gift. Climb the slightly overhanging wall, passing a few small tiered roofs and a bit of wobbly rock along the way to a 2-bolt anchor at a decent stance. 10 bolts, very soft 12a. Really only worthwhile as an approach pitch for the next one...
P2: The quality pitch! There are cruxes gaining the L-facing dihedral and transitioning onto the billboard of rock that finishes the route. Transitioning left and pulling onto this face is thrilling, with nothing but air below your feet. Work through a few hard tugs on the slabby face to the second set of anchors. 14 bolts, 12c(?).
You could probably get away with bringing far less (maybe 18) and stringing both pitches into one. You'd need a few long runners.
When I climbed this, it could be rapped with one 60m rope from the second anchors, which would deposit you part way up the huge mound of dirt and rock outside of the cave. Scramble down the pile for about 50 feet or so to the trail. The height of the mound may have changed since then, so plan ahead and bring two ropes or break the descent into 2 separate rappels.
One of the first routes as you exit the First Cave. If facing the cave from the ocean, this will be on the right side of the entrance, to the right of the giant mound of dirt.
P1: 316ss bolts (2012)
P2: Titanium bolts (2018)