PRINT: Rock Climb Zen and the Art of Masturbation, Red River Gorge

Zen and the Art of Masturbation

5.12d, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.9 from 61 votes
FA: unknown
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Pendergrass-Mur… > Gallery

Description

Not sure how this route avoided being added yet. Route breaks down to a series of boulder problems with marginal rests scattered about. The first crux is down low, using small incuts to traverse hard left to a jug (reachy). Subsequent boulder problems are easier, but the ever worsening pump quickly becomes an issue. I found the top to be a bit contrived because of the bolting; forcing you over to the right, which is easy, but seemed a bit goofy considering how obvious it is to mantel into the giant hueco/ledge off to the left. Up to you how to do it I suppose. Classic nonetheless. More info here redriverclimbing.com/RRCGui…

Location

First bolted route to the right of Random Percision, there's usually a insitu sling up high to help out with-in my opinion- the crummy bolting job.

Protection

bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Val on Zen

Kyle 3 on Zen

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Etienne Raymond
Gatineau

5.12d

Absolutely beautiful route. Get on it! Oct 28, 2019

Jim Lawyer

5.12d

I'll second the odd bolting job. The 4th bolt is weirdly out of the line of easiest climbing. Nov 2, 2020

Andrew Bock
Burlington, VT

As of oct 13 2021 the new glue-ins
Were chopped and new-new bolts put in near the originals. Not sure who did it, or why. But it was far less enjoyable today than it was last week. Oct 13, 2021

Bibi Garcia Diehl
Chattanooga, TN

To the asshat who chopped the bolts this weekend; being the FA doesn't make you the permanent owner of a piece of rock; your shitty bolting makes what could be a great climb dangerous and awkward. Hope your fragile ego can rest easy now. Oct 14, 2021

Dan Chandler
Kentucky

Some will argue that the developer forever gets to choose the bolt line since the developer is the one who spent the time and money to create the route. For perspective, when the RRGCC bought MFRP, we calculated we were paying around $900 per future route. When we bought BRRP, we calculated around $1,000 per route. That was paid entirely by climber donors. And, that is just cash out of pocket; it does not include all the extras like trail building, accounting, relations with neighbors and county officials. Developers absolutely provide an essential service for RRG climbing. I want to climb more than cracks, and thus I’m very grateful for developers’ service. What you cannot say is that drilling $50 or $100 worth of bolts negates the contribution of everyone else. Others put their time and money in this too. Oct 15, 2021

Ciarán Lynch
Ann Arbor MI

Had been looking forward to trying this for a while. The glue-ins looked like amazing bolt placements, sad to see a beautiful line botched. Oct 19, 2021

Matthew Jaggers
Red River Gorge

I'd add that several placements are far worse with the newest rebolt, with only one being better, but still not good. First off, how anyone could botch a rebolt is comical, and secondly, I will never understand why glue ins were not used for the rebolt of the rebolt... I tightened 2 spinners that were quite loose. Mechanical bolts should never be used for rebolts, ever. Apr 4, 2022

David Baltz
Albuquerque, NM

Why is this name not redacted? Jan 4, 2024

Jordan Katz
Ohio

Question first: Why would it need to be? Who exactly does it offend? Copyright infringement on the original book title? Taboo topic of sexual self-stimulation? What? Jan 4, 2024

DrRockso RRG
Red River Gorge, KY

Why would it be? Jan 5, 2024