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Zen and the Art of Masturbation

5.12d, Sport, 80 ft,  Avg: 3.9 from 7 votes
FA: unknown
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Pendergrass-Mur… > Gallery

Description

Not sure how this route avoided being added yet. Route breaks down to a series of boulder problems with marginal rests scattered about. The first crux is down low, using small incuts to traverse hard left to a jug (reachy). Subsequent boulder problems are easier, but the ever worsening pump quickly becomes an issue. I found the top to be a bit contrived because of the bolting; forcing you over to the right, which is easy, but seemed a bit goofy considering how obvious it is to mantel into the giant hueco/ledge off to the left. Up to you how to do it I suppose. Classic nonetheless. More info here redriverclimbing.com/RRCGui…

Location

First bolted route to the right of Random Percision, there's usually a insitu sling up high to help out with-in my opinion- the crummy bolting job.

Protection

bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Val on Zen
[Hide Photo] Val on Zen
Kyle 3 on Zen
[Hide Photo] Kyle 3 on Zen