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Sweet And Sour
5.11b,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 4
votes
FA: B. Workman, D. Kralovic, Ian Geddes
Washington
> Northwest Region
> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
> Other Skagit Va…
> Cumberland Crags
> 7 Mile Rock
> Main Wall
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
Solid climb that had previously been overlooked because of it's run out nature. A couple new bolts added from the FA in 2020 has made this an outstanding (PG) route.
Stick clip the 1st bolt and work various edges and facial features past 3 more bolts to a intermittent crack/seam. Follow locks, and a layback to an awkward notch and a traverse left (bolt) to a crux overlap through another notch with a bolt at your chest. One more bolt then continue easily along a roof traverse using a couple pieces to a 2 bolt anchor at a nice stance.
Takes about 3 consecutive sunny days to dry sometimes seepy at the roof but even when it is it's well worth the effort. DO IT!
Location
to the left of "Outsourced", right of "Worth The Wait" on the Great Wall-et Of China. Goes under the big "half moon" looking roof
Protection
Gear to 5" /6 bolts
A 4" cam would work for the short layback but a 5" works better
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Mount Vernon, WA
Good stuff! May 31, 2015