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The Contortionist
5.9+,
Sport, TR,
Avg: 2.3 from 91
votes
FA: unknown
New York
> Powerlinez
> s. Books Tier
> 6. The Good Book
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times). Do not block pump station access gates at any time. Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Couple of awkward moves, then easier.
Up to the obvious right-facing corner and up on that, then trend left a bit to the top.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).
Location
Right-most bolt line of this sector (9 ft right from The Nephalim).
Below obvious right-facing inside corner 15 ft up on right side of 3-ft-deep roof.
[Hide Photo] Good Book R + Fairy Tales L: V. Nephalim W. Contortionist X. Prince Arjuna Y. Atman/Braman? Z. I Am Time ... Fairy Tales ... A. Little Mermaid B. Braid of Rapunzel C. Pied Piper D. Baba Y…
[Hide Photo] Making a long reach. This felt stiff for a 5.9
[Hide Photo] The Contortionist is right-most, The Nephalim just to the left.
[Hide Comment] I believe this route is actually a harder climb than the 5.10 next to it on the left with a more strenuous stance to clip the second bolt.
Nov 24, 2013
[Hide Comment] It's definitely brainier and I think there is a good possibility some holds broke since it's original grade. But, I have been told that there is an easy way... Just have to figure it out.
Apr 8, 2014
[Hide Comment] Cruised through this early in the summer, and then came back and struggled for a long time trying to get up on the roof - either something broke off or I'm getting stupider... both definitely possible. Felt more like a 9+/10a this time.
Nov 30, 2015
[Hide Comment] Definitely didn't feel like a 5.9 after a couple key holds broke off. I thought it actually felt harder than the Nephalim right next to it. There's a bomber #2 Camalot placement in the horizontal crack under the roof to protect the move right before the first bolt.
Aug 2, 2016
[Hide Comment] My current understanding is that the steel bolts and hangers on this route are a holdover from before this area was legally opened for climbing. They have not been approved (or disapproved) by the Torne Valley Climbers Coalition, and are not maintained by the TVCC or Harriman Park, so whether or how to use them or not is your own responsibility.
[Hide Comment] Interesting climb. I don't know if something broke off, but I wouldn't want to lead it, with the crux between 1st and second bolt, you would deck if you fall. Definitely easier if you are tall.
Dec 4, 2017
Matawan NJ
New Jersey
Rockland County, NY
For more detail, see The Good Book area page mountainproject.com/v/6-the… May 16, 2017
Twin Falls, ID