Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: BBQ
Page Views: 370 total · 6/month
Shared By: BBQ on Nov 24, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Sick, good fun, and usually shady. This route delivers a stiff boulder problem right from the get go. Start with a right hand pocket that can be used like a multi-tool. Crimp with your left hand and stick a left foot up high. Rock on that left foot to a dynamic move that ends with a super-duper, left-hand pocket that is an absolute bucket.

From this bucket hold, move right to a hidden pocket that is located around a corner in the blonde area. Get set up on small, yet secure feet and you are off the races. Cling and layback your way up a flake. Stuff your fingers and hands into all sorts of pockets and work your way from small, insecure holds to jugs with lots of big, five-fun-plus moves that will keep your sphincter clenched all the way to the anchors.

Location

Find the flagship wall with routes like Pular Express and head back towards the road on a trail on the left side of a downed tree. Yes, you can use the tree for a comfortable bench. Walk this trail just a short ways past the short, black rock with four bolts in it. The Shivering Sphincter is the right most route on a black face found, within a small alcove, up the slope a bit from the trail.

Protection

Stick clip first bolt. Bring 8 quickdraws. Open anchors.

Photos

Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
Wasn't there a route or two on this wall? Apr 22, 2014
lee terveen
Spearfish, South Dakota
lee terveen   Spearfish, South Dakota
There still is. They are just a little revised. Apr 25, 2014