Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Brean Down

A Heavy Read S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bikini Atoll S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brean Dream S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bullworker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chepito S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chulilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Coral Sea S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Do you get vouchers with this? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guilt Edge, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kraken S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pearl Harbour S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Prisoner of Conscience S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Roof of Inequity, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tide Rising S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: M Crocker, M Ward, 1987
Page Views: 20 total · 0/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Nov 24, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Sometimes listed as "The Root of Inequity". Not sure which one's correct, but I prefer Roof. The main point of this route is the roof pull, and it's over pretty quickly.

A bouldery start (stick-click advised) past the first two bolts gains a big ledge and full rest. Climb steadily (high 5.10, maybe) on big holds past 2 more bolts and a piton to gain the undercut on the roof. Clip the bolt on the lip then make a few big moves on surprisingly good pocket holds and rock up onto the slab above. A few more easy moves remain to clip the chains.

Location

Near the right-hand end of the crag. Start below the roof with the obvious chalked-up undercling.

Protection

6 bolts, 1 piton, 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
Ben Broche   San Francisco, CA
Did this a few years ago - awesome movement through the roof, height dependent feels 7b/.12b if you're a shorty like me. Jul 21, 2014