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Routes in Hard Very Far Skyline Buttress

Wings of Unreason T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: J Woodward, A Woodward, 1977
Page Views: 151 total, 3/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Nov 23, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

Bold, technical, implausible climbing on perfect rock: a Roaches classic. Wings takes a central line up the slab, past some curious crucial pockets.

The undercut start is the crux, with a hard rockover move to gain the slab. Easier but unprotected moves up and left gain a pocket and gear (BD #1). Rock up to gain a standing position in the pocket, from which you can look longingly at the top. A wild dyno gives you the extra inches required, and a big rush!

Location

Straight up the centre of the Hard Very Far Skyline buttress.

Protection

A BD .5 and maybe a smaller cam in a flare may protect the starting move. The crucial gear in the pocket is a BD #1

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