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Routes in The Wiessner Route Area

Carpe Diem T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Procession T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shifty Eyes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Toe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jerry Handren
Page Views: 812 total · 16/month
Shared By: Matt Desenberg on Nov 23, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Protection

For the first section, a few small/medium nuts and a single set of TCUs or similar. You might want an extra finger-sized piece to protect the moves through the overhang to the first bolt.
From there, 7 bolts to anchor.

Description

Very good, sustained face climbing once you are into the bolts. Did I mention it's sustained?

1.) Climb an easy flake/groove off the deck to a small overhang 15' up. Bomber finger-sized gear protects the balancy moves to the first bolt. From here, things get tough. Work up and left on thin terrain past the first two bolts on tiny feet and sidepulls. Have shoes with good edging.

Not sure of the difficulty of the climbing past the first couple bolts, I'll let you know when I get there. A few people have said that something may have broken recently, but it's more likely that we're all just weaker than Jerry. 80', 5.12b

It is possible to continue above past a few pins into the headwall crack for a mega pitch.

Photos

john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Both times I tried this I wanted to rename it Flop Fest...basically got up a few bolts and then nowhere Dec 6, 2016
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
Virtually everyone is weaker than Jerry.... Dec 6, 2016
AWinters   NH  
This thing is real deal! Jun 15, 2014