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I'm Your Huckleberry

5.13b, Trad, 115 ft (35 m),  Avg: 4 from 6 votes
FA: Randy Leavitt, with help from Brian Spiewak, Zach Gelbart, Glenn Svenson, Chris Hubbard, Mike Matelich (2013)
California > San Diego County > S San Diego County > El Cajon Mountain > Wedge > Right Wall
Warning Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Advisory DetailsDrop down

Description

I'm Your Huckleberry has been called the best 5.13 in the San Diego area by some.

 Approach the base by climbing Bruzer Head (5.8 sport) to anchors on the roomy grassy ledge. From here continue up Crackamite (5.10d), protecting with a variety of cams from aliens to #2 Camalots. 

Halfway up Crackamite, head right up the steep headwall protected by bolts. The variety of moves you do to the chains is wonderful. The crux is 15 feet below the chains where you must do a powerful bouldering Gaston sequence. Taller climbers will be able to reach past the powerful gaston moves here, rendering the climb easier than 13b. In any case, it is a wonderful climb. 

Best to do this in the spring time in the morning shade, or afternoon shade. During the short winter days, wait for a colder day as it is in the sun then.

Location

Starts on Crackamite (5.10d) and finished independently up and right following bolts.

Lower down from anchors to clean, or lower down then top rope to clean gear, then lower back down (better)

This climb follows the huge left facing corner above Line Of Fire on the right side of the main El Cajon Mountain cliff.

Protection

1 each Aliens - green, yellow, red
1 each C4s - purple
2 each C4s - red
3 each C4s - gold
at least 6 long slings on your lower cams to reduce rope drag
70M rope
3 bolt anchor at the summit

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Randy Leavitt, I'm Your Huckleberry - a beautiful crack climbing leads to this headwall. Photo by Chris Hubbard
[Hide Photo] Randy Leavitt, I'm Your Huckleberry - a beautiful crack climbing leads to this headwall. Photo by Chris Hubbard
Finally, something a little less slabby for Randy to work his magic on.
[Hide Photo] Finally, something a little less slabby for Randy to work his magic on.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Leavittator
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] second ascent by Josh Higgins and third ascent by Mike Maiden Nov 23, 2013
Leavittator
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] Here is some good beta on the moves: vimeo.com/65510053 Nov 23, 2013
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
[Hide Comment] Congratulations...a hell of a good job, Randy. Looks like an amazing route. May 30, 2016