I'm Your Huckleberry
5.13b,
Trad, 115 ft (35 m),
Avg: 4 from 6
votes
FA: Randy Leavitt, with help from Brian Spiewak, Zach Gelbart, Glenn Svenson, Chris Hubbard, Mike Matelich (2013)
California
> San Diego County
> S San Diego County
> El Cajon Mountain
> Wedge
> Right Wall
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Advisory
Details
Please avoid raptor nests. El Cajon Mountain- Golden Eagles nested successfully at this site in 2009, after relocating twice between alternate nest sites. The Golden Eagle nest at El Cajon Mountain was not successful in Spring 2010. This nest was successful and fledged young in 2011 - 2021. Details from USFS posted here:
fs.usda.gov/detail/clevelan… The El Cajon Mountain climbing area is in close proximity to the San Diego River Park Foundation property. This property's purpose is to protect and conserve San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife in perpetuity. Specifically, the San Diego River Park Foundation are protecting golden eagles that nest in the area and ceanothus, a California lilac that is an endemic sensitive plant species. Please avoid and limit recreational activities at the San Diego River Park Foundation property to promote San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife. Thank you!
Description
I'm Your Huckleberry has been called the best 5.13 in the San Diego area by some.
Approach the base by climbing Bruzer Head (5.8 sport) to anchors on the roomy grassy ledge. From here continue up Crackamite (5.10d), protecting with a variety of cams from aliens to #2 Camalots.
Halfway up Crackamite, head right up the steep headwall protected by bolts. The variety of moves you do to the chains is wonderful. The crux is 15 feet below the chains where you must do a powerful bouldering Gaston sequence. Taller climbers will be able to reach past the powerful gaston moves here, rendering the climb easier than 13b. In any case, it is a wonderful climb.
Best to do this in the spring time in the morning shade, or afternoon shade. During the short winter days, wait for a colder day as it is in the sun then.
Location
Starts on Crackamite (5.10d) and finished independently up and right following bolts.
Lower down from anchors to clean, or lower down then top rope to clean gear, then lower back down (better)
This climb follows the huge left facing corner above Line Of Fire on the right side of the main El Cajon Mountain cliff.
Protection
1 each Aliens - green, yellow, red
1 each C4s - purple
2 each C4s - red
3 each C4s - gold
at least 6 long slings on your lower cams to reduce rope drag
70M rope
3 bolt anchor at the summit
[Hide Photo] Randy Leavitt, I'm Your Huckleberry - a beautiful crack climbing leads to this headwall. Photo by Chris Hubbard
[Hide Photo] Finally, something a little less slabby for Randy to work his magic on.
Small Town, USA