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Routes in Avery Peak

SW Face T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Type: Trad, 2500 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,611 total, 33/month
Shared By: Eric Klammer on Nov 22, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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A direct line to the summit of Avery Peak, this route begins in the gully below the red slab before shooting directly up the SW face to the summit. The underlying stone on this route is surprisingly solid but is covered in loose rocks big and small. Helmets are a good idea. Cool rock and great scrambling throughout make this a fun outing, and the views at the top are hard to beat. If you like your slabaneering with an extra helping of choss, this route is for you!

Begin by scrambling the gully, with a short but steep corner to keep you on your toes. Continue up on solid rock and big blocks to the base of the SW face. The next 100'-200' are the best on the route. Quickly climb the perfect slab, trending left at the top to get out from under the death rubble perched above you. From here, carefully continue up on worse rock, gradually trending right until reaching the South ridge. Follow the ridge the last couple hundred feet to the summit.

To descend, head back down the South ridge, and when possible, drop into the basin on your left. Follow the trail at the valley bottom all the way back to 317.


From the Avery Peak parking area follow the old road towards the large, red face. After completing a few switchbacks you will intersect with trail #401 and soon after will cross the gully. Head up the gully.


Helmet, rock dodging skills.