Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 22000 ft (6667 m), Grade IV|
|Page Views:||1,170 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Stiles on Nov 22, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Start on Mount Emma (13,581'), and traverse north to Gilpin Peak (13,694') over Fourth and low Fifth Class terrain around several towers on the ridge. The large cliffbands can be passed to the west with some exposed and unprotectable fourth class.
The traverse to 'Block Top' (13,543') to the west is very challenging. This is as far as Section B has been taken. There are rapell anchors on ths first tower encountered. Block Top gets serious, as does Dallas (13,809'). These are the cruxes of the whole traverse. There is a huge notch in the ridge between Dallas and West Dallas (13,741') that will present another crux. From Gilpin west to this notch is very, very challenging and presents the unknown ground. From the notch to 'TO' (13,735') is third class. 'TO' is the mountain north of Campbell Peak and the second highest peak in the traverse behind Dallas.
It would be best if it were possible to get to and across the tops of Block Tops and Dallas Peak without a rope and the giant notch following. OR an alpinist's strength will do, and you belay adventure-5th Class from Block Tops multiple walls and rappels all the way through the many technical stretches over to West Dallas.
The vertical rock up very high is much more solid than most of the San Juan rock, and solid rock pro can be abundant.