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Routes in Goose Egg Mountain

Ride the Lightning T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joseph Puryear & Stoney Richards
Page Views: 1,982 total, 40/month
Shared By: Drederek on Nov 20, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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8 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Ride the Lightning is a great route that suffers from less than stellar rock quality. Decent pro when you need it and bolts on the faces. The first two pitches are probably worth doing for anyone, after that I'd say only the adventurous need continue as the rock steadily gets looser as you ascend.
P1 ascend the face below the obvious roof.
P2 more face leads to a great corner.
P3 work left around the roof and up.
P4 more bolts lead you thru some questionable stone.
P5 follow cracks thru some overlaps and a couple bolts, the rock gets better again for this crux(?) pitch.
P6 head up and right on somewhat easier ground looking for a bottoming out hand crack just before you get to the gully. Belay below a large outcrop to protect the belayer on the final pitch.
P7 head up into lowangled looseness toward a small pine tree across in places piles of dinnerplate sized rocks piled who knows how deep.
We walked off climbers left past some cairns to the large obvious gully and down it with one short rap about halfway down.

Location

Park at the well, a mile or two after you first see the wall coming from the east. the trail starts there and leads to the base.

Protection

Single rack and a dozen draws and some longer slings should do it. The first 4 belays (maybe 5) are bolted, after that its probably easier to go over the top than back down the route.

Photos

Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
 
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
 
The crack in the dihedral on P2 is really fun and interesting climbing, the corner on P3 is as well. The slab you have to climb to get there is a rather unnerving pile choss though. I lead much blanker, much more run out slab on granite without worry. Each of us spent much longer than expected on the slab leads because we were testing so many flexing and breaking flakes/nubbins. Thankfully it is bolted more like a modern sport climb so any fall wouldn't be bad.

If you had your heart set on an alpine multi-pitch with a bit of adventure, but the weather shut down those plans, then the rainshadow might make this is a decent alternative (that's how we ended up here, Tieton is dry when the west side is wet). However the rock at royal columns, the bend, or lava point is infinitely better.

Note the FA topo shows rap stations at full 60m lengths. From the top of P3 down there are now intermediate rap stations so there is no need for double rope rappels. Watch out for flakes down on the slab pulling your rope though. Jul 27, 2015
Tom Beirne
Seattle
 
Tom Beirne   Seattle
 
Get your adventure hat: lots of flexing, hollow, or breaking holds on pitch 1/2.

Gear: As described. Leave the C4 #3 and #4 and take triples in C4 #1 and #2.

The crack is spectacular, but the same or higher quality exists at the Bend. Would not recommend following another party on this climb without helmet /sunglasses. Jun 22, 2015
RobUSA
  5.9
RobUSA  
  5.9
The folks who put up the route have an excellent, consise description of it here: cascadeimages.com/cr/tieton…

This is a really fun route, even though I got more adventure than I bargained for on it. If you want the full story, you can read my long-winded trip report here: rocknropenw.com/2014/05/05/…

If I did it again, I'd bring 16 draws (half sport quickdraws, half alpine-draws,) and BD C4 cams #0.75 through #4, with doubles of #1, #2, & #3. The first three pitches have chains for rappelling. The remaining pitches end at pairs of bolts without chains, except for the top of pitch 7 where I believe you belay off a tree. May 6, 2014