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Routes in Birthday Rocks Boulders

Big Foot Arete V7 7A+
Birthday Arete V3 6A
Birthday Warm-up V1 5
Die Hard V6 7A PG13
Dolphin Fingers V7 7A+
Dude, where's my keys? V3 6A
Empty Beer-can V1+ 5
Flipper V1 5
Fukness, The V8+ 7B+
Ice Queen V4 6B
Lonely Oyster V3 6A
Ripples of Time V10 7C+ PG13
Riptide V3 6A
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Type: Boulder
FA: Ian CB
Page Views: 1,387 total · 25/month
Shared By: Ian CB on Nov 19, 2013
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

Starting with a jug a chest level on the left arete, climb rightwards through the face on seams and crimps to a not so bad top out. Get on this thing, it's a fun hard problem.

Location [Suggest Change]

From the south shore beach, walk along the train tracks north. Near the middle of the lake there is fencing below a talus field. Look up, and The Fukness is on the Heartbreak Boulder, facing you, 40 or fifty feet up in the talus.

Protection [Suggest Change]

I used 3 big pads and a small. The landing is quite jumbled.
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Nice work Ian! Chris is going to move my pics over when he can. Nov 19, 2013
Ian CB
 
Ian CB  
 
Thanks Remo. Yeah people should try this. The landing is reminiscent of the Fat Racoon Boulder, and it's as good. I think there's several ways to do it too. Nov 19, 2013
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Now that is a club approved name if it ever there was one! Nice! Psyched to see you guys uncovering so many great boulder problems over the last few years. It's like the golden age of bouldering at DL. Peace and fuk-nes. SteveS. Nov 22, 2013
Ian CB
 
Ian CB  
 
After busting the long move to the edge, power left into a gaston, and then the top. And that's Fukness Direct.. maybe V10 or 11. IMO better than the original, and no harder.. maybe? This thing needs some action. Mar 29, 2014
Ian CB
 
Ian CB  
 
Time will tell.. People should try this. The moves are really fun and with a few pads it's totally safe. Morning shade, afternoon sun. I'd recommend getting on it while it's shadey. Oct 30, 2014
Time will tell. I did this in a couple tries in full sun / t-shirt weather. There are very few (if any) v9s at the lake I think I could do in comparable conditions. Felt about as hard as Mean Gurlz with my sequence. That's the background on how I formed my opinion, in case anyone was wondering.

All that being said, this thing climbs a lot better than it looks. Short approach and fun moves. People should get on it. Oct 30, 2014
Aawait
 
Aawait  
 
Excellent! I had fun projecting this!

Finally did this today via the direct version described by Ian. Fun and powerful movement! V10 perhaps? This problem felt harder than soupmaker, fearful symmetry, and alpine club. I also needed good conditions to send.

When I did play around with beta for skipping the gaston it felt hard. I'll have to go back and play around some more. Nov 2, 2014
Sick that the cross worked for Ya. I did it that way but found myself stretched and the release feeling harder than the other ways. I figured the taller guys might crush that beta. Nov 4, 2014
Ian CB
 
Ian CB  
 
Mr. Nic, I think you are off base and wrong with most things you just said. Also I believe your reasoning is irrational. I will just leave it at that. Nov 4, 2014
Ian CB
 
Ian CB  
 
I'm glad you guys say how hard you think these are.. When putting up a line it is hard to judge... Not just sometimes but all the time. And that is how we get a consensus. Nov 6, 2014

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