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Routes in Solarium

Aberration S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Black Hole S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Direchossimo S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flux Capacitor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flux Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Focus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Morning Wood S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Russian Meteors S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sabado Gigante S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sendero Luminoso S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Shocker S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Snake Eyes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Split Descison S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Static Cling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supernova S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Venom S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
Page Views: 613 total, 12/month
Shared By: Patrick O'Donnell on Nov 19, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

This route ascends the middle face between "Directchossimo" and "Psmead" at the lower solarium area. This the face adjacent from Shocker that doesn't get alot of traffic.

Russian Meteors starts on a huge dangling and intimidating looking flake (it's actually not hard). Clip the first bolt on the dangling flake and stand up tall to clip the 2nd bolt. from here do some hard moves 11+/12a to reach a jug and clip the 3rd bolt. Climb an amazing face (10+) for a long ways that meets with the last 2 bolts of Psmead (11b). clip the last 2 bolts of psmead (possibly with long runners) as well as the Psmead anchor and continue for 5 more bolts into an ever steepening headwall with a crux before the anchor. Grab an improbable looking crescent arch jug hold and clip the chains.

Location

between Directchossimo and Psmead in the lower solarium.

Protection

bolts

Photos

Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
 
Great route! Such fun movement, I really enjoyed the whole thing. Didn't feel scary or hard hanging the draws. It did have some choss, so get on it and clean it up! Great job Patrick. Apr 2, 2017
brucy  
Ahhh...this is a 35 "meter" lead, not 35'. Use a 60 meter rope at your peril.
Somewhat run on the easier flakey section in the middle. May 9, 2015
The consensus is that it's an excellent route to the first anchor shared with Psmead to the right. Above that people think it's a bit dirty. it'll probably clean up but it's probably not as high quality as the first pitch to first anchor. Jan 16, 2015
First bolt is OK. I hammered that flake with my hammer and yarded on it. A fellow route developer TR'd it with me before bolts were added. I initially did not want to put a bolt there but he insisted that it was the right place to put the first bolt. Otherwise no protection going to the 2nd. I doubt anyone would actually ever fall there. Apr 28, 2014
Looks awesome but gotta wonder about that first bolt??? Feb 16, 2014