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Topographic Ocean
5.10+,
Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches,
Avg: 2.9 from 10
votes
FA: Dan Kennedy Smiley Jerome Fitz
California
> Lake Tahoe
> Carson Pass Hig…
> Woodfords Canyon
> Fortress
> 2 - Wood Hood
Description
P1 - Climb a right-facing corner to a face with a single bolt below a roof. Move up and through the roof, follow the hand crack up and around the left side of the formation to a bolted anchor.
P2 - Move around left to a broken ledge. Climb up a finger crack in a left-facing dihedral, encountering several 10+ sections along the way. Half way up the rock is a bit loose, but the pro is decent. Belay at the bolted anchors atop the dihedral.
P3 - Head up broken rock and move left into a short, clean, left-facing dihedral. Climb the finger crack (10+). Continue up the thin crack/flake on the white slab. Belay at the anchors directly right of the double cracks (shares with Yellow Fin).
P4 - Climb the double hand cracks to their end. Continue up through a triangular roof, then up a thin hand crack that parallels the arête. When the crack runs out, move left to a stance and flake anchor. Can be combined with P3 for a long 180' pitch. Classic!
Variation - After the double cracks make some runout moves up and left to a good stance then climb up through a short, bulging, corner (5.11) to a nice hand crack and belay in the corner. Also classic!
P5 - continue up to the top via easier terrain. (5.8)
Rap the route with a 70m rope.
Location
Located 100' left of the first pitch of Hand of God below an obvious roof with a single bolt below it.
Protection
Gear to 3" with an emphasis on thin pro
![Looking up the second half of the route. Either head through the triangular roof (original route) or through the bulging corner to the left of it (5.11 var).]()
[Hide Photo] Looking up the second half of the route. Either head through the triangular roof (original route) or through the bulging corner to the left of it (5.11 var).
![This is a variation to P3. The original route goes up the white slab to the climber's left.]()
[Hide Photo] This is a variation to P3. The original route goes up the white slab to the climber's left.
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Reno, NV
South Lake Tahoe
I docked a star for some suspect rock, especially on P2. P2 starts clean but the mid and upper sections have some blocks and flakes that make you wonder how much longer they're going to be around. The top of P2 has an especially scary flake jammed in a crack that's impossible to avoid grabbing as it's the only thing around. It's probably solid, but I'd hate to be around if it goes. The top of P3 as we did it (going right after the corner) also has a few stacked blocks that got my attention. The rest of the climb is generally pretty solid, although the Woodfords grain is still ubiquitous.
P4 is especially wild. Double cracks, crimp traverse, roof, and a cool move around the arete at the top!
Definitely heavy on the thin gear. Nov 7, 2017
Sacramento, CA
Lots of finger/small pieces on this. Bring them! There’s enough protection points, but some of it would likely break out in a good fall.
I wouldn’t link pitches 3 and 4, at least not on the onsight. I’d wager you’re much more likely to be grimacing than grinning when you turn that lip to the anchors on pitch 4 if you try. Nov 8, 2017
Reno, NV