PRINT: Rock Climb Mane Line, Smith Rock

Mane Line

5.13a, Sport, 150 ft (45 m),

Avg: 3.7 from 9 votes
FA: Alan Watts
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (g) Morning Glory Wall

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Smith Rock's version of an 8,000 meter peak, Main Line rises high above the Morning Glory wall. It begins by climbing the start(and crux) of Energy Crisis, then traverses left into a shallow scoop just right of Lion's Chair. You'll find technical & highly interesting stemming for several bolts (main crux), followed by a pumping 5.11 crack. At the 100 ft mark you get another large rest, followed by the redpoint crux: a butthole puckering 50 ft slab of flawless red stone. From here to the summit felt similar to climbing Watts Tots.

A highly involved, but worthwhile endeavor.

Location

Just left of Magic Light.

Protection

14 bolts. Use long slings.

Convience minded climbers should consider using a 90+ meter rope. Otherwise use the rap station at the 100 ft mark.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Fighting for my first RP on the sporty 45M line Main Line

clipping the anchors all run out 40+m high on Main Line

Beginning the pumpy crack on Main Line

Main Line is BEEEG

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Hunzicker

Really great route and good description Ryan! What a long and varied route! The only downside is the "energy crisis" start. A more pure and direct line (not to mention much more fun) would start on the 5.10 perfect dihedral to lower left of scoop. Other than the start, this is a 5 star! Dec 16, 2013

Steven Dimmitt
Bend, OR

5.13a

80m rope got me down with ~10ft to spare. Be sure to tie a knot in the end! Nov 27, 2017

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR

5.12d

To understand the grading on this and Energy Crisis one needs to execute the exact same mental gymnastics required to comprehend the grading on Cool Ranch Flavor and its extension. The beginning crux of the '12b' is far more difficult than anything on the subsequent 37 meters of climbing. Somehow the rest of the route bumps the rating up to 13a despite many excellent rests and generally easier movement. Think V5-6 to 12a/b with numerous good stances sprinkled in between the cruxes. Dec 30, 2017