PRINT: Climb First Come First Served, Central Coast

First Come First Served

V10 PG13, Boulder, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 3.6 from 12 votes
FA: Thomas Townsend, 2013
California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Santa Barbara… > Creamery > First Come First Serv…

Description

Destined for glory, this one.

Begins in obvious cave. Start with left hand on vertical crimp and right hand on sloping edge. The idea is to start with your whole body in the cave. Do a desperate and shoulder-wrenching move to a pinch at the edge of the cave. Figure out transition to crimp-rail without swinging off the rock, and top out boulder via highball slab. Amazing stone, amazing position, amazing moves. Did I say I like this problem?

You can start the problem on the right-hand edge of the cave as well using some crimps and heelhooks. It makes the problem significantly easier, but no less quality.

Location

On the First Come First Served boulder at the upper right corner of hillside. Take main trail uphill, and when it forks, head right.

Protection

Good assortment of paddage.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Thomas Townsend wearing a beanie.

Me on the first powerful move to the pinch at the lip of the cave.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA

V10

For the record, it took me like 175 attempts of the OPENING MOVE to send this. Longest battle with a problem I've ever had.

It was dark, and all I had was a headlamp and a particularly potent blend of coffee and hot-chocolate.

So satisfying to send. Apr 27, 2014

Tim King

Only done the 'Cheat start' (straddling the cave), but even still it's mega classic. Had trouble sticking the original start move to the sloper pinch in the sun...
Must come back for an early morning or night sesh.... Sooo good. Feb 27, 2015

Alex Rich
Santa Barbara, California

Tried to walk over to this boulder today and got stopped by a large and very angry rattlesnake who has made his home right on the path. I think he's going to be there awhile unless removed by a professional. It freaked me out enough where I didn't try going around, nor did I look to see if you could. If you ARE going to try to go up there and scout out going around, keep an eye out. He's in the jumble of rocks in the path right around where the hill levels off. Maybe 20 yards or so from the boulder. Mar 20, 2021

Dawson Burke
Seattle, WA

V10

Kind of a crappy beta video, I'd check out betacache/youtube for better angles and full value representation:
youtu.be/EQePprgOrkk Mar 26, 2021

Derek Tom

V10

The story of a little chuffer: Once upon a time on a young lad came to first come first served hoping for his first v10(oh he thought…). Stocked he was, but naive he was more. He tried the top out a mere one time before ground gos, and got too spooked and dropped. Out of the blue he hit the first move. Adrenaline running through his veins, and no doubt fear of the slabby top. He thought he could match the sloppy lip without finding the crimp. This little man became a chuffer in one day. Ohhh the sleepless nights, ohh the dreams of the slabby top. 4 sessions later and the first move has become impossible for the chuffer. Finally on a fine 75 degree day in the sun little chuffer man becomes a man and gets first come first served. Jokes aside this is one of my favorites in sb. Soo powerful, sooo fun. Tbh I think it’s a fair v10. May 15, 2022

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA

V10

I approve of this story, Derek. This problem has many good narratives. May 19, 2022