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Routes in Barrel Boulders

Bulls In A China Shop V6 7A
Corner problem V0-1 4+
Dirty Bird V3 6A
Dirty Direct V4 6B
Dirty Traverse V3 6A
Gennaro V5- 6C
Half Crack V0 4
Hidden in Plain Sight V5- 6C
If Not Here, Where? V5+ 6C+
If Not Now, When? V3 6A
Just a Handful V4-5 6B+
Low and Behold V3-4 6A+
Open Season V4-5 6B+
Right Red Arete V2-3 5+
Right leaning ramp V0+ 4+
Secret Handshake V6 7A
Shister Wall V2-3 5+
Shister, The V4 6B
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Michael Shaffer
Page Views: 758 total · 15/month
Shared By: Nezbit on Nov 15, 2013
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

On-Sight Beta:
Climb the arete from a sit-start.

Flash Beta:
Climb the arete from a sit-start with both hands on the long vertical edge. Paste the right foot on, engage core, and go. Using the arete as an intermediate while moving up to the tooth seems unlikely but helps more than a little.

Location

Left arete on Boulder 1

Protection

Pad

Photos

Nezbit
 
Nezbit  
 
Hey Bill!

Typical of me to be a bagger. Most of that is because of the area(s) I came up in climbing, but in this case, if I did sandbag the rating, a lot of that is due to the fact that I was coming back to climbing after a year off and didn't really have a sense of where I was at. At any rate, I tried to rank the climb with others in the area. I did not feel that the climb clocked in with Sandstone Violence, Highly Executed, or either of the lower Cannons variations. But there did seem to be similarity with Grounded For Life and All In The Family.

Detailed Beta:

If you click on the photo and enlarge the image you can get a good look at the climb. I started in the same place you and your buddy did in the video: sat on the ground with a right foot pasted onto a decent smear and hands stacked on the low vertical crimp. Instead of lurching up to that miserable tooth, though, I used a mediocre right-hand sloper on the arete as an intermediate and bumped (my buddy Andy figured out this beta). That little sucker helped me considerably. Don't know what it will do for others. So, from the right hand intermediate it's a bump to the tooth. Just above the tooth there is a vertical crimp (not the long edge a bit higher!). I caught that with the left and moved the right hand onto a little sloping bump on the face about level with the tooth. It's been awhile but I am fairly certain all that was done from the same right foot and it is significantly less awkward to move the feet up with the hands in that position. With the feet up, it's straight to the top. The long vertical above the left hand that is chalked up in the image is not necessary for the move to the top... But I guess that all depends on body types and climbing styles.

I called it The Secret Handshake for the tight hand moves led into and left behind by a big move.

Hope that helps! After you go out to the Dodge next and crush this boulder problem register your grade on the page and eventually the true grade will emerge!

Hope to run into you sometime! Jun 16, 2014
Bill Wendt
Wheaton, Illinois
Bill Wendt   Wheaton, Illinois
What! V5!? hahaha nice. I have done V8s that are easier than this thing. Well at least easier than the beta I was using to work it. I WANT THE SECRET BETA! Nice work man Jun 16, 2014
Fidi N.
Iowa City
Fidi N.   Iowa City
Scoped this bad boy out the other day!
Looks awesome, can't wait to try. Nice FA Michael! Nov 21, 2013
Nezbit
 
Nezbit  
 
Thanks Chris! My buddy and I had a great time at the Barrel Boulders--good rock and good problems. Props to the crew that found them. Nov 16, 2013
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
So glad someone finally went out and did this thing! Nice work. Nov 16, 2013