Mountain Project Logo

It's a Kind of Magic

5.12a, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Original route: F Haden, M Crocker (1994), Modern route: M Crocker, D Jenkin, 2008
International > Europe > United Kingdom > England > S West > Cheddar Gorge > Cheddar Gorge N… > Remnant

Description

A steady start up to the main bulge gets the blood flowing for a technical and powerful sequence through the steep ground. The holds all seem to face the wrong way, and the crux move is a long reach off and undercling to a jug. From here, bolt 4 could be clipped high, but it's better to make another move to more good holds on the right before clipping. Easier climbing, but still with interest, leads to the top.

A reliable winter route, drying quickly and not taking too much seepage, even staying dry (in the lower section) after light rain!

Location

After the cave, before the leftwards-trending crack of "Fossil", this is the line of bolts taking the bulge directly.

Protection

6 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.