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Routes in Brean Down

A Heavy Read S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bikini Atoll S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brean Dream S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bullworker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chepito S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chulilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Coral Sea S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Do you get vouchers with this? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guilt Edge, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kraken S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pearl Harbour S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Prisoner of Conscience S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Roof of Inequity, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tide Rising S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: F Haden, G Jenxin, E Heslam, 23rd April 1995
Page Views: 35 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Nov 14, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Description

Climb an easy wall to a high first bolt and rest at about 5m (stick-clip unnecessary, the climbing is easy and positive). Warm-up over, continue up into the power-endurance crux sequence.

Move up from a good right hand sidepull to various crappy holds for the left, then make a big move to a good right hand. Clip bolt 3 high from here, move up to gain a left hand pinch and rock up to gain a sidepull/undercling right hand. A powerful crossover gains a good left hand above the bulge, from which a technical sequence gets you established at a good jug and bolt 5. Final easy moves get to the lower-off on the left, shared with Pearl Harbour.

An alternative is to move rightwards from bolt 4 or 5 to an independent lower-off, which doesn't add to the difficulty.

Location

The first line of bolts to the right of the common start of Chepito and Pearl Harbour, beneath the right hand end of the central bulge.

Protection

5 bolts, 2-bolt anchor

Photos

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Fully re-bolted with Titan Climbing Eterna titanium resin bolts and Hilti RE500 epoxy in February 2015.

Original Petzl Collinox bolts remain but Portland staples replaced by titanium hardware (including the lower off).

Note the route does not finish at the Pearl Harbour anchor as described. Jul 18, 2017

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