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Routes in Brean Down

A Heavy Read S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bikini Atoll S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brean Dream S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bullworker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chepito S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chulilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Coral Sea S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Do you get vouchers with this? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guilt Edge, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kraken S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pearl Harbour S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Prisoner of Conscience S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Roof of Inequity, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tide Rising S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: F Haden, I Parnell, J Hunt, 7th November 1993
Page Views: 98 total · 2/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Nov 14, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

A decent warm-up and actually quite a nice route if the correct line is taken.

Start up a juggy, left-facing flake, third bolt-line from the left, to a big ledge. Take the left-hand line of bolts above this (the right-hand line is Bikini Atoll). A series of chalked-up holds in the middle section lure many climbers left, but go right up good but spaced crimps for the best (easiest and most direct) climbing.

Location

About the third line of bolts from the left, shares a start with Bikini Atoll to the right up a short, juggy left-facing flake.

Protection

about 6 bolts, 2-bolt anchor

Photos

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Fully re-bolted with Titan Climbing Eterna titanium resin bolts and Hilti RE500 epoxy in February 2015.

Original Petzl Collinox bolts remain but Portland staples replaced by titanium hardware (including the lower off). Jul 18, 2017