Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Alang
Page Views: 202 total · 3/month
Shared By: BrianWS on Nov 14, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Highly recommended to stick clip the second bolt. The crux is getting from the first to the second, which if you blow it would likely result in a ground-fall.

The start is very dependent on holds that are hard to see. Scramble up to the break, make a blind reach for a tiny edge, and layback off this to the big sloper. Find another edge, get your feet up, and make a dynamic move to the horizontal jug. From here, balance up the corner and move left to the corner (hard awkward move to easy climbing) or right around the arete (fun but easier moves with bad fall potential). Haul up to a ledge with big jugs then move left and continue up the completely detached flake to more arete balancing. Once in the small alcove (more questionable rock here), find the hidden good holds, pull through the overhang, then clip into the anchors in the hopefully not completely detached block.

Location

3 routes to the right of Phantom Fright. Look for the flake system a little less than halfway up the wall.

Protection

316 steel (2007)

Photos

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Danger
Taipei City
Danger   Taipei City
The first bolt has been amended but stick clipping the 2nd is still a good idea - the first bolt to the 2nd is where the crux is and with any amount of rope out, decking is a very real possibility Oct 29, 2014