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Routes in {10} Backdoor

Another Overhang T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back Door Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Basement Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Rock Falling S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Coach Demonstrates S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cowboy Arete S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragon Pole T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dragon with Matches T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everybody's Welfare S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying Teeth T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hao Ren Alang S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Harley Davidson S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hermit Crab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Class Quickdraw S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Into Thin Air TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jeff's RP Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Five-Thirteen S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lava Tube S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lion Queen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Motorcycle S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
New Ferrari S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phantom Fright T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Po V-easy 3
RCC TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Redhead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rodeo Clown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Security Blanket T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sidestep T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slab Sea T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Legged Cat S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Three-Legged Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Twisting S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under the Staircase TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vita S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Water Heater Route T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Who Fooled Who? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Alang
Page Views: 183 total, 4/month
Shared By: BrianWS on Nov 14, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Highly recommended to stick clip the second bolt. The crux is getting from the first to the second, which if you blow it would likely result in a ground-fall.

The start is very dependent on holds that are hard to see. Scramble up to the break, make a blind reach for a tiny edge, and layback off this to the big sloper. Find another edge, get your feet up, and make a dynamic move to the horizontal jug. From here, balance up the corner and move left to the corner (hard awkward move to easy climbing) or right around the arete (fun but easier moves with bad fall potential). Haul up to a ledge with big jugs then move left and continue up the completely detached flake to more arete balancing. Once in the small alcove (more questionable rock here), find the hidden good holds, pull through the overhang, then clip into the anchors in the hopefully not completely detached block.

Location

3 routes to the right of Phantom Fright. Look for the flake system a little less than halfway up the wall.

Protection

316 steel (2007)

Photos

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Danger
Taipei City
Danger   Taipei City
The first bolt has been amended but stick clipping the 2nd is still a good idea - the first bolt to the 2nd is where the crux is and with any amount of rope out, decking is a very real possibility Oct 29, 2014