Hao Ren Alang
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft|
|Page Views:||185 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||BrianWS on Nov 14, 2013|
Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details
Accelerated corrosion that targets stainless steel bolts (SCC) has caused multiple failures, including both anchor bolts on a route that a climber was being lowered off of. Please read the BOLTS note on the main page. You can also help the cause by visiting the Bivy during your stay and giving QX some reds, whites, or if youre feeling generous, some BLUES!
DescriptionHighly recommended to stick clip the second bolt. The crux is getting from the first to the second, which if you blow it would likely result in a ground-fall.
The start is very dependent on holds that are hard to see. Scramble up to the break, make a blind reach for a tiny edge, and layback off this to the big sloper. Find another edge, get your feet up, and make a dynamic move to the horizontal jug. From here, balance up the corner and move left to the corner (hard awkward move to easy climbing) or right around the arete (fun but easier moves with bad fall potential). Haul up to a ledge with big jugs then move left and continue up the completely detached flake to more arete balancing. Once in the small alcove (more questionable rock here), find the hidden good holds, pull through the overhang, then clip into the anchors in the hopefully not completely detached block.
Location3 routes to the right of Phantom Fright. Look for the flake system a little less than halfway up the wall.
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