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Bush Eviction

5.9, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 8 votes
FA: Tom Michael & Michael Harrington, 1986
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Sheep Pass Area > Cap Rock Area > Cap Rock > Cap Rock - N Face
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Left of False Layback, start up a crack system immediately left of the dihedral. A combination of side pulls or fist jams can be used on this route. Once you reach a horizontal crack, use balance move to stand on it, then go up the large flake. Once the large flake starts getting thicker, make your way right again for more fist jams. Continue until you reach a small roof, traverse left and back to the rock face and go up a few feet. Large ledge on top. Optional variation (5.10c) if you start on your left side, directly underneath the large flake.

Protection

Standard/Large rack. You will need cams between 2" to 4" and 3's and 4's to set up anchor and bring your second up.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sean
Oak Park, CA
[Hide Comment] standard rack of doubles plus one optional #4. no need for many big cams. big cams not mandatory for gear anchor either, plenty of other sizes avail May 26, 2015