To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Bush Eviction
5.9,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 2.4 from 8
votes
FA: Tom Michael & Michael Harrington, 1986
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Central Joshua…
> Sheep Pass Area
> Cap Rock Area
> Cap Rock
> Cap Rock - N Face
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Left of False Layback, start up a crack system immediately left of the dihedral. A combination of side pulls or fist jams can be used on this route. Once you reach a horizontal crack, use balance move to stand on it, then go up the large flake. Once the large flake starts getting thicker, make your way right again for more fist jams. Continue until you reach a small roof, traverse left and back to the rock face and go up a few feet. Large ledge on top. Optional variation (5.10c) if you start on your left side, directly underneath the large flake.
Protection
Standard/Large rack. You will need cams between 2" to 4" and 3's and 4's to set up anchor and bring your second up.
Oak Park, CA