Type: Trad, 385 ft (117 m), 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,601 total · 51/month
Shared By: Floyd Hayes on Nov 11, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Actually, this isn't even a route; instead, it's a highly contrived "multipitch" adventure linking together seven short and moderate trad routes (5.6-5.8) on six pinnacles as you work your way uphill, with very short walks (15-100') between all but the first two routes (only the first two pitches are truly multipitch). The bolts on a few routes can be safely bypassed using gear instead to convert each route into a pure trad route.

Pitch 1 options: Forrester's Crack 5.7 (recommended), Far Side Chimney 5.6, The Pile 5.8, or Near Side Chimney 5.6 [NOTE: These climbs are on the first rock formation when you arrive at the Far Side.]

Pitch 2 options (can be linked with pitch 1): Rite of Passage 5.6 or Initiation Rite 5.6 (recommended). Descend via rappel down the north face. [NOTE: From the top of pitch 1 these climbs continue up the short cracks to a low-angle slab above.]

Pitch 3 options: Old Tradition 5.7 or Old Spice 5.9. Descend via class 4 off west end (rappel down north face not recommended as the rope easily gets stuck). [NOTE: From the top of pitch 2 these climbs are visible on the large rock about 20' directly across the short gap to the north.]

Pitch 4: North Face of Hummingbird Spire 5.7. Rappel off a single but solid bolt. [NOTE: From the top of pitch 3 this climb is on the opposite side of the short tower about 30' directly across the short gap to the north.]

Pitch 5: Planet of the Grapes 5.6. No rappel anchor (unless you leave a sling); descend by lowering your partner down the route and rappelling down the other side of the rock while your partner anchors you. [NOTE: After climbing pitch 4, walk west about 25 feet over a small gap and 25 feet uphill to a small pillar on the right side of a larger pillar and climb the face of the small pillar to the right of the chimney between the pillars.]

Pitch 6: Koka 5.8. Descend via class 3 walkoff. [NOTE: From the top of pitch 5 this route is on the tall tower about 20' directly across the short gap to the north. Start at the dirty offwidth crack on the left side of the face.]

Pitch 7: Left Behind 5.7. Belay from one bolt and two pieces of gear. Finish by climbing the upper blocks to the summit of the crag, then descend a trail down gullies to the east of most crags back to the base of The Far Side (you won't get lost!). [NOTE: From the top of pitch 6, look for a crack splitting a rock on a tall but fractured formation about 150' uphill to the northwest. Walk along the ridge 100' uphill to a gap, turn left and follow a trail downhill 75' to the base of the formation.]

Location Suggest change

Begins with the lowest crag and ends at the highest crag.

Protection Suggest change

1 set of cams up to 4" or 5" (up to 2" will suffice) and 1 set of nuts.