Avg: 1 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,120 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||bspiewak on Nov 9, 2013|
|Admins:||Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
What I will describe here creates a nice, long, easy lead almost entirely on gear. It also allows for a more entertaining way to climb up the major ramp feature below the Blue Sky Wall without 3rd classing your way up the slab. Granted, it's a little contrived to just not step out right onto the slab, but staying in the corner provides fun enough climbing and just enough protection.
Due to the almost constant traversing nature of the route, be mindful of protecting your follower where it matters.(i,e. after the cruxes)
The climb begins with a 20' tall broken column on the left. Lieback the right side of this column to gain the start of the arch. When you reach the chimney continue traversing right by first climbing either up and right or by stepping down and right. Either way you'll end up in the same lieback to undercling crack. At the end of the undercling is the best oppurtunity to build a gear anchor if you like, 1.5"-3" cams. The climb continues above by staying tight in the very corner and not allowing yourself to walk on up the 3rd class slab out right, unless you prefer that type of climbing :-). The only lead bolt you'll encounter is above you on the left wall of the corner, where you'll also find nice face features and the occasional gear placement. The Buffalo Brothers belay bolts are the first bolted anchor you encounter and make for a good belay spot. Step directly back into the corner off the belay to get gear protecting the belay. (There's smaller pro available below the obvious 4" crack)
The next anchor/rap bolts you encounter 50' above are the belay bolts for Closer to the Sun. You can continue up the first pitch of that route and keep the grade the same. Otherwise, leave the beginning of that route and continue up and right across the obvious, wide grey water streak. On the right side of the water streak you'll encounter bolts on the large, grassy, flat Cactus Ledge. This marks the end of the 5.6 climbing. The Space Between begins straight up from here, and Cause for Pause climbs across this ledge as well, into the 5.8 4th pitch, up and slighty right.
Rappel back down the way you came.
When passing through the Cactus Ledge area, and especially when rappelling through this terrain be EXTRA cautious not to dislodge anything. While it is not particulary loose or dangerous you are located in a perfect position to rain disaster down on to the entire, popular Left Wall below you. Even the slightest stuck rope warrants extreme caution.