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Reaching The Melting Point

5.12a/b, Sport, 60 ft,  Avg: 4 from 5 votes
FA: Lee Terveen
S Dakota > Spearfish Canyon > Ice Box

The Ultimate Road Side Attraction!

A pumpy, power-endurance route with HUGE MOVES! Starts overhung and stays overhung. Starts powerful and ends with a power mad struggle for a hidden hold.

A series of sick sequences that all have to be strung together with powerful, precise moves. Great goddamned gastones!

Start this bad-ass test piece with crimps and pockets to reach an overhung starting crack with sick jams and finger-locks. Get those feet up and power up to a series of layback moves that lead to a small pocket sequence, to a huge jug, to another sick layback. Get those feet up and grab the gigata-jug before you completely melt! Grab a quick rest and start the next technical sequence that starts with crimps, to a bar of soap hold, to the best goddamned gastone at Ice Box!

Lead into the next crux with a lock-off, two finger with your left and a sweet side pull with the right. A pinchy crux leads to a brief rest on a juggy feature below the last roof. The next series of moves will blow you away with the power and precision needed to finish the route up proper without completely melting off.

GET ON THIS BAD BOY! THIS IS A ROUTE GUARANTEED TO NOT DISAPPOINT!

Location

On the blonde wall behind the sick, overhung boulder and just up the hill to the right. Second route from the left. Starts on an obvious, thin flake just to the right of a crack system.

Protection

Take 10 quickdraws. Open Anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sick, sequential, powerful and pumpy! This route is one of the best winter time climbs in Spearfish Canyon. It's close to the road and requires barely any hiking. Located on a fine hunk of rock, this route has challenging moves which makes it a great pumpy alternative to the couch on a cold, winter's day.
[Hide Photo] Sick, sequential, powerful and pumpy! This route is one of the best winter time climbs in Spearfish Canyon. It's close to the road and requires barely any hiking. Located on a fine hunk of rock, th…
the answer is six...in Tony feet.
[Hide Photo] the answer is six...in Tony feet.
Reaching The Melting Point, 5.12b<br>
Classic, cold weather climbing at Ice Box, Spearfish Canyon, South Dakota.
[Hide Photo] Reaching The Melting Point, 5.12b Classic, cold weather climbing at Ice Box, Spearfish Canyon, South Dakota.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Any measurements between those moves? in feet is fine. haheeehee Nov 17, 2013