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Ford Fairmont Futura
V4,
Boulder, 15 ft (5 m),
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
FA: unknown
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
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> Parking Lot Area
> Rdside Boulder
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Runs up the arete on the north side of the third, or farthest up canyon boulder. Lots of smearing and balancy moves. There's a constant feeling that you are going to barn door on this thing.
Not sure if I am truly the first ascent on this thing seeing how this is LCC and pretty much everything has been climbed, especially something this easily accessible. However there was no chalk and no sign of anyone doing it before. If anyone has any info on this I'd be more than happy to update the name, FA, etc.
Location
The third or farthest up canyon boulder.
Protection
crash pad
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Utah
The Black Bible has Ford Fairmont Futura on the NE arete of the most Eastern boulder in the three boulder cluster at the south west end of the parking lot.
The north side of the E arete flows well, seems a little soft for a V4, but checking with Mike Beck, this was the original line for Ford Fairmont. The first few moves on the East side of the arete are harder, but you can reach the crack after only a few moves, so it doesn’t seem like as much of an arete problem. Nov 8, 2020