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Routes in Lipton

Lipton T WI7
Lipton Direct T M7
Type: Trad, Ice, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Carlos Wagner, Franz Fischer 1995
Page Views: 176 total · 3/month
Shared By: Ian Hanson on Nov 6, 2013
Admins: Michael Sullivan

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Description

World Classic! Lipton is sustained and acrobatic and is a very serious undertaking that should only be attempted by experienced climbers. The first pillar falls down at least twice during the season so stay alert and pay attention to conditions.

Pitch 1:
Start inside the sometimes mixed groove and climb on steep (80*) thin ice up to the belay under the great roof (45m)
Pitch 2:
Traverse right out of the roof, using a #2 friend, and gain the ice pillar. Belay under the next roof. (15m)
Pitch 3:
Climb out of the roof and up the ice to a good belay. (25m)
Pitch 4:
Contiue up steep ice until the top. (40m)

Location

At the very end of the upper gorge. Lipton is unmistakable due to its vivid yellow color.

Protection

Ice and rock gear. A #2 friend can be useful to protect the first roof.

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