PRINT: Rock Climb The Dispensary, Eldorado Canyon State Park

The Dispensary

5.10a, Trad, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 19 votes
FA: Chip Ruckgaber, Summer 2011
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Below Low…

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

The Dispensary was approved by the FHRC process in the Spring 2011 session. It's a mixed gear/bolted route starting left and up the ramp from Wave Rave. Refer to page 208 of the Levin guidebook.

Location

This is in the Lower Ramp Wall area. Hike up toward the Roof Routes and look for a faint trail off left at a switch back near the obvious, large, flat boulder. Follow the trail up a bushy gully until you reach a huge cave where Wave Rave starts. Head up the slab for 30 feet to an obvious tree and climb up (gear) toward the first bolt. The route is basically right below Le Toit.

Protection

4 bolts protect the 5.10 climbing. Bring a light rack up to a #3 Camalot for gear opportunities before the first bolt and after the last bolt.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbing between the first two bolts on The Dispensary.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs, co

Remember to check your knot and yer belayer! Nov 6, 2013

climberz

Good climb.

The tree at the base of the climb has a large block leaning against it. This scared me, because I could not find any gear for the 1st 15 ft of climbing when you are already 40 feet up the ramp. I really wanted to sling the tree. I ended up doing this and had my belayer move toward a cave thinking that if I did fall and weighted the tree, the boulder might dislodge and crush my belayer, me, and possibily someone at the bottom of the hill. After building a nest 6 feet below the 1st bolt, I downclimbed to the tree and removed the sling because I did not dare weight it. Seemed possible if I fell higher on the climb.

That said the climbing is easy to the first pieces but intimidating and not on very solid rock.

I was unable to find any gear besides the tree before leaving the ramp. Maybe a #4 Camalot in the mud layer?

I would love to see this block removed. It would be dangerous to do because it might roll all the way to the trail. Might be able to sling it at lower it down the ramp.

Anyway, fun climb, well worth doing. Decent warm up for routes in the roof area. Nov 14, 2013

mtoensing
AZ

^^ Regarding the post above about the gear before the bolt, I was able to find plenty of gear to safely protect the climbing before 1st bolt. The moves off of the ramp are chossy but it is all there and gear can be had if you look around. After clipping the bolt, I back cleaned my gear easily. At the last bolt, step left and head straight up. I was able to find smaller gear to protect the moves onto the ledge before the belay tree. The tree has webbing and you can easily setup a TR after leading.

I found this climb to be similar but better than bolting for glory. It will clean up nicely with more traffic.

PS the block mentioned that is leaning against the tree is still there, but I put my feet on it and didn't seem too sketchy to me. If it goes, it will probably stop at the base of the ramp. Mar 17, 2014

Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO

5.10a

Fun and interesting pitch. Thin face climbing! Seems that there is 2 ways to climb past almost each bolt... some ways easier/harder than others. Fairly big runout after the final bolt.... Sep 5, 2014

D Snyder
Golden, CO

5.10b PG13

Really fun, continuously thin moves for the first 2/3's of the climb. The gear up to the first bolt is bomber. After the last bolt, there's a pretty good stretch up to some uninspiring gear - save a #2 Camalot for the area behind the hollow sounding flakes. The climber's right-most ledge that one can top out on is covered in poison ivy, but it can be easily avoided. Oct 19, 2016

climberz

There is a new 2 bolt anchor on this climb about 10' down and right of original tree anchor. UNFORTUNATELY this ledge is covered in poison ivy. Be careful. If you are sensitive to poison ivy, you could likely use the tree anchor and avoid the poison ivy. May 11, 2017