Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 842 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Nov 6, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Scramble up to a big ledge then jam the clean hands corner that leads to a very short wide section. Pull the bulge(crux) above the wide on cupped hands and continue on cups into another OW slot with hands in the back and edges out left to the anchor. My 70 got me down no problem.

[editor's note - the following was originally posted by Tom T under the route name 'polaris']

Climb a short squeeze chimney to a large sandy ledge. After about 20 feet of perfect wide hands in a clean corner it's time to get busy. Grunt, cuss, and struggle your way through a slightly overhanging offwidth and deposit yourself into a tight squeeze chimney. This chimney provides an excellent no-hands rest and protects with a hand crack that is just within reach. Follow the obvious crack to two solid drilled angles that had brand new [yellow] slings in March 2006.


From the top of the approach trail head left. The route is approximately 100 feet left of Desert Shield.
Look for a 30 foot tall slab that leads up to an obvious right facing corner.


Mostly #2 and 3 Camalots with a couple of big pieces thrown in.

[Tom T's recommendation is Camelots: 2-#1's, 2-#2's, 4-#3's, 4-#4's (old or new, they both fit in various places)and a couple random pieces for the start. A 60m rope will barely get you to the ground with some very tame down-climbing. A stopper knot in the "belay" side would be prudent.]


Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
I had posted this under Polaris in 2011 because one of Tom T's pics of this route was listed there. now I'm thinking that Polaris is a different route to the right of desert shield...

this one is located just left of desert shield. Great route, the old book says unnamed, ? for grade and maybe 100'. I recommend a 70m rope to belay from the ground. Also, I thought it would be #2s to the OW but it would have been better to have #3 camalots instead. Take 1 - 2 new #4 camalots and a #5 if you suck at OWs like me (plus some other sizes as stated on the description).

This is a really good route that should get traffic. Someone might want to replace the slings on those drilled angles though. I would have but didn't bring extra webbing to the crag this time. Nov 7, 2013
Devin Fin
Devin Fin   DURANGO
the pic i posted Jan 2011 is polaris. it's a long route 2 ropes #3's #4,s 1#6 an Big Bro's . save some hand pieces for the top.. hope we can shift some picks an post the proper info for Polaris .... cheers DF Nov 8, 2013

i moved Tom T's description from 'polaris' to this route to give some more info. in particular, i think his gear beta and the note about having a stopper knot with a 60m are pretty helpful. Jan 2, 2014