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Gunboat Diplomacy

5.4, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 12 votes
FA: unknown
Maryland > Sugarloaf Mountain > Devil's Kitchen > 006 - The Blade
Warning Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. DetailsDrop down

Description

Gunboat Diplomacy begins on a ramp and continues up the angled wall. It follows the crack right up the inside of the "open book" that defines the wall. The crux is at the top, where the crack will want to suck you in. The trick is moving left onto the face at the end.

The Blade itself (arete) is much harder than 5.4 probably 5.11 or 5.12. It starts out pretty sharp but turns into a real sloper near the top and overhangs about 5 degrees or so.

Location

Once you finish the climb, build an anchor at the top and belay your partner up. Then walk off.

Protection

The route is well protected with a standard trad rack. Like all climbs at Sugarloaf, there's no bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Follow the line up the center of the open book, left of the arete.
[Hide Photo] Follow the line up the center of the open book, left of the arete.
Stemming on the route.
[Hide Photo] Stemming on the route.
The Blade Area. Rope in background is on Gunboat (5.4). Arete in foreground is 5.10.
[Hide Photo] The Blade Area. Rope in background is on Gunboat (5.4). Arete in foreground is 5.10.
Follow the line up the center of the open book, left of the arete.
[Hide Photo] Follow the line up the center of the open book, left of the arete.