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Time To Power

5.12c, Sport, 115 ft (35 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 27 votes
FA: John Collins 1992
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (c) Shipwreck Wall > Shipwreck Wall - Rive…
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Description

Time to Power ascends the attractive East Ship face in between the Aggro gully and Ship Wreck gully. A wild & varied route unusual of Smith Rocks. Features everything from difficult slab climbing on flawless red stone to long moves through a pumping overhang. The crux is typical of most 5.12s at smith, near vert, on bad holds.

Other difficulties include waiting for an opportunity to climb the route, as the bottom portion of this route has become quite popular.

Protection

There's a somewhat difficult clip part way up the upper scoop. It's best just to skip it. It's best to approach this route as a single push from the ground. Be aware! A 70 meter rope will barely reach the ground.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Brian on Time to Power
[Hide Photo] Brian on Time to Power
Steven about to tackle the second pitch of time to power after a couple warm up laps on feel the chi.
[Hide Photo] Steven about to tackle the second pitch of time to power after a couple warm up laps on feel the chi.
Time to Power, 5.9 (P1)<br> Time to Power, 5.12c (P2)
[Hide Photo] Time to Power, 5.9 (P1) Time to Power, 5.12c (P2)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jon Rhoderick
OR
[Hide Comment] FA: John Collins 1992

My two cents as I get closer to sending. It's not too hard to clip all the bolts on the headwall, try climbing to the left of the tricky bolt. A long sling on the 3rd bolt of the 2nd pitch is really helpful for clipping. Finally it is easy to clip the anchors from a good pocket, but the climb finishes naturally on a jug up and right of the anchors, adding another few cruxy moves. Overall you get many .11 sections with one 12+ crux. Nov 6, 2013
Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] The reason I suggested skipping a single bolt on the headwall is that you basically have a bolt at your knees while clipping the next. Not to mention stopping mid move is somewhat awkward(I stopped to clip on my first attempt). On subsequent ascents, I've just skipped it and found it to improve flow. Id say the crux is no harder than the crux of lower heinous minus the discontinuous climbing of heinous. There's maybe a 5.11 pump crux above this section and a mid 11 crux pulling on the slab. Aug 19, 2015
CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] This thing is seeing a lot of traffic now with having fixed draws on the upper bit. The difficulties are fairly discontinuous but I think the crux is more like a stout V5 boulder problem and way harder than heinous. The jugs on the upper headwall are so much fun! Also,I was very comfortable skipping the crux bolt (it only increases your fall by about 4 feet) as well as the bolt below the anchors Nov 7, 2015
Daniel Jordan
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Palo, if the crux(es) on Time to Power feel the same difficulty to you as the crux on lower Heinous, you're climbing lower heinous wrong. Feb 3, 2016
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Feel the Chi makes for a better/more direct start to this thing with less rope drag. +1 for skipping bolts to improve flow. I skipped the second crux bolt (the one you'd clip standing on the jug rail) and the last one. In hindsight, I'd probably have been better off extending the crux bolt instead of skipping it so that I could clip it from the rail allowing me to skip the one below it. (the one immediately above the rail) Either way, stopping and clipping it in the middle of the crux while hanging from the worst holds on the route seemed not worth it with the other one at my shins. Jan 19, 2022