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Routes in Shipwreck Wall - River Face

Shipwreck (1st pitch only) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time To Power S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Time To Power (1st pitch only) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time To Shower S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: John Collins 1992
Page Views: 1,457 total · 29/month
Shared By: Ryan Palo on Nov 5, 2013
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

Time to Power ascends the attractive East Ship face in between the Aggro gully and Ship Wreck gully. A wild & varied route unusual of Smith Rocks. Features everything from difficult slab climbing on flawless red stone to long moves through a pumping overhang. The crux is typical of most 5.12s at smith, near vert, on bad holds.

Other difficulties include waiting for an opportunity to climb the route, as the bottom portion of this route has become quite popular.

Protection

There's a somewhat difficult clip part way up the upper scoop. It's best just to skip it. It's best to approach this route as a single push from the ground. Be aware! A 70 meter rope will barely reach the ground.

Photos

danieljordan
Portland, OR
danieljordan   Portland, OR
Palo, if the crux(es) on Time to Power feel the same difficulty to you as the crux on lower Heinous, you're climbing lower heinous wrong. Feb 3, 2016
CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
This thing is seeing a lot of traffic now with having fixed draws on the upper bit. The difficulties are fairly discontinuous but I think the crux is more like a stout V5 boulder problem and way harder than heinous. The jugs on the upper headwall are so much fun! Also,I was very comfortable skipping the crux bolt (it only increases your fall by about 4 feet) as well as the bolt below the anchors Nov 7, 2015
Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
 
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
 
The reason I suggested skipping a single bolt on the headwall is that you basically have a bolt at your knees while clipping the next. Not to mention stopping mid move is somewhat awkward(I stopped to clip on my first attempt). On subsequent ascents, I've just skipped it and found it to improve flow. Id say the crux is no harder than the crux of lower heinous minus the discontinuous climbing of heinous. There's maybe a 5.11 pump crux above this section and a mid 11 crux pulling on the slab. Aug 19, 2015
FA: John Collins 1992

My two cents as I get closer to sending. It's not too hard to clip all the bolts on the headwall, try climbing to the left of the tricky bolt. A long sling on the 3rd bolt of the 2nd pitch is really helpful for clipping. Finally it is easy to clip the anchors from a good pocket, but the climb finishes naturally on a jug up and right of the anchors, adding another few cruxy moves. Overall you get many .11 sections with one 12+ crux. Nov 6, 2013