Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Go Back to Colorado

5.12b, Sport,  Avg: 3 from 41 votes
FA: unknown
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Old Rd Crags > Leigh Creek > Upper Psychoactive Wall
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT Details

Description

Much like Gloom and most of the Upper Psychoactive routes, this one lulls you into a sense of possible heroic flash. Alas, it will not submit so easily and because this is a MW route from back in the sandbag days, it is waiting to kick you in the Jimmy before giving up the chains. Seriously fun and then wickedly hard at the end.

Location

Second route from the right. Begins from the lowest tier, left of the small roof.

Protection

bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Go Back to Colorado
[Hide Photo] Go Back to Colorado
Alan Goodrich hanging on for the send
[Hide Photo] Alan Goodrich hanging on for the send

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

kalockwood
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] This route is fun 5.9/5.10 climbing to a hard boulder problem. It could have been a really fun warm up, but instead it's a contrived 5.12. Jul 9, 2015
Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Like so many of the routes on this wall, you feel like a hero chugging away on those giant pockets until the end... Jul 10, 2015
Tom Rangitsch
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] I disagree with the comment below that this is a contrived route. It has fun, moderate climbing followed by a hard crux at the top. Many routes have defined crux sequences. This makes them cruxy, not contrived. Routes that are poorly bolted or try to avoid an obvious weakness may be contrived. This one is just not easy the whole way and makes you earn the grade (unlike many 10sleep routes). Jun 7, 2019