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Chainsaw Willie
5.8 R,
Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2 from 5
votes
FA: David Babich, 1982
California
> Lake Tahoe
> Highway 50 Corr…
> Phantom Spires
> Middle Spire
Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures
Details
While climbing is open, Wrights Lake Road is within the Caldor Fire closure: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/. Plan to approach from Hwy 50. In addition, Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website.
fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.
Description
Crux near the ground where a crescent-shaped overhanging little bump makes you traverse left. After stepping over, the route is a cruise on slabs with a mix of the Spires' usual bumpy positive features.
Location
The face between the dihedral of Tyro's Testpiece to the left, and the giant flake of Cockabooty to the right.
Protection
Not much pro that I recall, thus the R rating in the guide books. No anchor hardware, though gear anchors are possible in a couple of spots. You can borrow Cockabooty's fixed anchor to the right to rap off.
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Perchtoldsdorf, AT
Sacramento, CA