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Cryogenics

5.11, Sport, 35 ft (11 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: (TR) Dean Goolsby & Craig Pearson, FL: Geoff Archer and Clark Friedgen, April 1991
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Echo Rock Area > Big Hunk > Big Hunk (Southwest F…
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Description

Similar to Archer-Friedgen across the way, Cryogenics dials the difficulty meter up a notch. Great face climbing with a definite crux between bolt 1 and 2. Clipping the 2nd bolt ain't easy, and though it's safe you'll want to make sure your belayer isn't mesmerized by the tourists somehow lost on the Barker Dam trail. Stays pumpy through bolt 3 and then eases off.

Unlike the rock on the lower southwest face, this wall is pristine.

Location

Located up and back on the southwest face, possibly the best way to this route is to climb The Black Tuna. Otherwise you could also boulder up past the Yuccas on the far right of the alcove, then make your way across to the wall. Also called the Cryogenics Wall in some books.

Protection

3 good bolts, chain rap anchor.

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Big Hunk (Southwest Face) , Joshua Tree NP
[Hide Photo] Big Hunk (Southwest Face) , Joshua Tree NP

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tradiban
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Tricky to read moves and clipping bolt 2 is insecure

Hard 11, chains are really rusty on top. Short route not worth a 20 minute hike but if you happen to be up there after Black Tuna et al jump on it. Feb 3, 2020