Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Torre De Mierda

East Buttress T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Glass House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northeast Buttress T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Micah Humphrey & Preston Rhea - 11.3.13
Page Views: 103 total, 2/month
Shared By: Preston Rhea on Nov 4, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Glass House takes a wandering line up the south side of east buttress of Torre De Mierda aiming towards an obvious dihedral a little more than half way up the route. Pitches 3 and 4 are classic and really fun. If the whole route were like them it would easily be a 3 star climb, but as it stands, they offer a nice break from meandering loose alpine climbing.

Pitch 1 - Start atop a blocky ledge and climb a broken face trending left to an overhang (5.8). Continue up a red ramp to where it ends. 60m

Pitch 2 - A wandering pitch over easy terrain. Start by moving off of the red ramp onto the face following the path of least resistance and generally aiming towards the dihedral. The pitch ends on a tallus covered ledge below a corner leading into the dihedral. Huge amounts of rope drag were encountered on this pitch; it may be worth breaking into two short pitches. 60m

Pitch 3 - A short pitch up a gorgeous corner crack to a ledge below the dihedral. 30m

Pitch 4 - The Dihedral! Great climbing up the obvious dihedral (5.8). Belay at the top of the dihedral in the chimney to mitigate rope drag for the next pitch. A stellar pitch! 35m

Pitch 5 - Two blocky and loose chimneys seperated by a tallus covered ledge. Easy climbing, but lots of very large loose blocks encountered. Caution is required! 30m

Location

The route goes up the southern side of Torre De Mierda's east buttress. (The east buttress is easily identifiable by a large tombstone shaped recess on the toe of the buttress.) It starts 200' to the left (south) of the toe of the buttress on a blocky ledge.

To descend either downclimb (4-5th class) or rappel to either the notch to the north or the south of the southern summit of Torre De Mierda. Once in either notch, downclimb to the west down the gullies (3rd class).

Protection

The rack should consist of doubles in cams from .5-#2 and a single #3.

0 Comments