Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: R. Summer, B. Todd - 1975
Page Views: 2,435 total · 38/month
Shared By: bergbryce on Nov 3, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Stellar finger to hand crack high above Emerald Bay near South Lake Tahoe, CA.
The first pitch follows the splitter crack to a flake traverse which leads to a large, sloping platform. In the back corner of this platform is a belay with a great stance. Belay takes .3-2".
The crux of the route, a one move grovel, that can be protected well, is right off the belay, so build the anchor accordingly. After the crux move, follow easy 5th/4th until you reach the downclimb on climbers left. Belay here, then walk off down gullies, after enjoying the view.

The route faces due west/southwest and gets lots of sun.

There is a ton of good rock in the area, so start early and explore some other stuff while you're up here. Absolutely worth the hike.


The route lies about 1800' above 90' Wall in the southern crags of the Rubicon Crest. The approach requires a good 1.5 hours (for mortals) of uphill hiking on climbers trails. There are several ways to get here, but the easiest to describe is by making your way to the feature known as The Stomach first. Pass this on the left (west) and continue uphill maybe 500' more, following the path of least resistance. Then, you will want to start trending more left (west). The hiking angle eases up some as you traverse, but this section is kind of brushy. Eventually, you will begin working up a gully that will eventually have what looks like an impasse in the middle. You can pass that on the improbable looking right side. Look for the lone large tree that is right of the climb in some of the pics here. The route is now a short bushwhack up and to your left. You can't see it until you make the turn right at its base.

Approach coordinates:

NW corner of The Stomach
38.95273, -120.11833

Base of climb
38.95473, -120.12280 (roughly)

This can also be approached via Venturi Wall approach but might be a bit longer.

Descent: The descent can be done the same way, or you can descend the gully you came up but shortly start to work right, eventually making your way down to the White Walls area. This way is more involved and can lead to getting cliffed out. This descent could also be connected to the start of Sector 20.


Doubles, .3-2, no fixed gear.
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
Great submission! I've always eyed the steep white granite over there. It looks so enticing, I'm gonna need to check it out. Nov 5, 2013
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
A gorgeous looking line with an insane view guys!

Maybe I can talk Laine into slaving up there with me one of these days... But who gets the OS attempt??? A palm sweating round of rock paper scissors should do the trick. Jun 21, 2014
I think the best way to do this would be to do the first three pitches (or 4?) of section 20 which then basically spits you out at the base of all american finger crack instead of the ramp up to pitch 5. then do the downclimb and easy walking traverse to the base of pitch 5 of section 20. it is also possible to scramble around underneath the base of pitch 5 then traverse through large talus and cut back around right with a teeny downclimb to the top of the manzanita shelf under pitch 6 (we did this because we didn't know where we were when we cut under pitch 5 of sect 20). Jun 7, 2018
South Lake Tahoe
jlee   South Lake Tahoe
"but this section is kind of brushy"

false, it is very brushy. heinous. Jun 7, 2018