Type: Trad, Alpine, 1320 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: Rafele Carlesso & Mario Menti, 1936.
Page Views: 522 total · 8/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Nov 3, 2013
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Seen from the NW, the eye is immediately drawn to a striking near vertical crack system piercing the upper half of the face. Lower 5th class climbing at the UIAA Gr. III level (5.4/5.5)reaches an overhang/cave at the base of the fantastic dihedral and crack system. Climbing out from the cave and reaching the dihedral proper constitutes the crux at UIAA Gr. VIII- (5.11a/b), but aid may be used to overcome this obstacle to progress (A0,A1). The remaining climbing is still quite stout at UIAA Gr. VI, VI+; some additional aid is frequently used by many parties. This is still regarded as a serious route, and strong parties still require 7-9 hours on the route; not to be underestimated.

Location

The climb is reached by means of climber's path from Rifugio Coldai or Rifugio Tissi. Downclimb the NE Route using the Haupt-Loempel chimney system; ultimately reaching the Tivan Weg which leads to Rifugio Coldai

Protection

Many pitons are in place, but a normal "Alpine" rack of stoppers, cams, and slings should be carried.

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