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Routes in The Wall of Voodoo

Porch Monkey S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sufferin' Succotash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Voodoo Child S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
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Type: Sport
FA: C Ruckgraber, S Sangdahl, J Baldwin, 1998
Page Views: 105 total · 2/month
Shared By: Mark E Dixon on Nov 2, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

"I stand up next to a mountain
And I chop it down with the edge of my hand"
Jimi Hendrix

15 years after being established, this worthwhile route still has some friable rock and a thought provoking flake.

Surmount the initial overhang, head upwards to the 3rd bolt, then rightwards under, on and over a flake that could add to the adventure. Some fun moves lead to the final headwall, which is steep, hard and sharp. This may be a little height-dependent if you are shorter than 5'6". It is a challenging onsight no matter your height.

Location

Voodoo Child is around the corner from Monkey Porch and Sufferin' Succotash. If approaching from above, it is easier to stay on the left bank (looking down) of the gully until you can cross back on a rocky ramp, then scramble up ledges to the base of the climb. There's a bolt for the belayer, clipping in would be a very good idea if the leader has any chance of falling before clipping bolt 1 on route. The ledges are not child/dog friendly but are a much pleasanter staging area than the base near Monkey Porch.

Protection

8 bolts, ring and chain at anchor.

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