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Routes in 2 - Main Face

Chossmonaut T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Fits and Arms T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Beginning T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Providence T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Straits of Fear T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 270 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: October 30, 2013
Page Views: 29 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Nov 1, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

The crux is climbing the knobs after traversing left onto the face. It's a long way down, and your last gear is below your feet as you begin. That said, if you are a "big" person, getting through the initial cave may be impossible!
This is a typical exploratory route - it has more than its fair share of ugly, but also passes some interesting sections. The future will no doubt see those better parts incorporated into better routes.
Climb through the awkward notch on the left side of the boulder to a stance, then go up the crevice rightward, entering a cave. There's a "glory hole" on the right; it is a very tight squeeze. Work through it to a small chamber with another glory hole on the right, which leads to open air quite a ways up the cliff. There's a dirty gully/chimney heading upward behind you when you first exit the cave. Head up it to the second oak tree and belay.
P2: Climb up to the second horizontal break to the left, make an awkward move out left onto it, and traverse across the exposed face until you are above a stunted oak tree (if you are soloing, this is your only hope of salvation in a fall). Look for a column of knobs in this vicinity, and climb them to the next horizontal break. Go through this to the next face, step left, find a vertical crack buried in dirt, and claw your way up it, expressing great disappointment when it runs out shy of the next ledge. Suck it up and do a couple friction moves to safety.
P3: Wander left up the dirt cone, and traverse (again, awkwardly) left under an overhanging obstacle to easy ground along a horizontal break. Go all the way across, step onto a ledge, and decipher the safest way off this refuge - which may involve rappelling, more dirty soloing, or an "invigorating" slide down a steep chute.

Location

Find the large, many-branched oak tree ~100' left of the giant left-facing corner (which is the start of Providence). Behind this tree is a large boulder suspended between two blocks or sides of a chimney. The climb begins here.

Protection

Bring plenty of slings, and a set of C4s up to #4. Also a trenching tool and wire brush!

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