PRINT: Rock Climb The Skipper's Little Buddy, Smith Rock

The Skipper's Little Buddy

5.10d, Sport,

Avg: 2.3 from 36 votes
FA: Ted Stahl, Jim Ablao, Spring 2002
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (c) Shipwreck Wall > Shipwreck Wall - E Face

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Easier climbing to the scoop, and then an unusually technical crux that balances through some spaced holds. easier climbing above.

Location

Look for the car sized scoop about 25' off the ground to the right of slab happy.

Protection

8 bolts. Anchors with rap rings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climber is cleaning the anchor atop Skipper's Little Buddy.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

dmPete

5.10c

Derrick, thanks for adding this one to the database! Fun route, and a great companion to Fish N' Chips! Mar 31, 2015

Derrick Peppers
Terrebonne, OR

5.10d

your welcome. I agree. the crux is kinda artsy fartsy for me, but I'm 5'8" with a -3 ape index so go figure. totally worth doing. Apr 1, 2015

Quincy aka Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA

5.10d

After the easy scramble, getting the large flake hold for the 2nd bolt is reachy for 5'3", doable, just more tenuous for the feet then it is for those taller. The crux had some balancey moves where the handholds and footholds are small, creating a bit of a pump. The rock is still breaking off and rains choss on belayer. A little nubbin even fell into my hand as I was belaying. May 21, 2019