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Psycho Killer

5.12, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 4 votes
FA: unknown
New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Capulin Canyon… > Capulin Canyon > Upper Wall

Description

The 5.12 listed in "Rock and Road." A slight offset crack that slowly gets wider up a gently overhanging and featureless wall. The crux is tight greens through the overhanging section, with no feet. Short and straight forward; pure (and painful) crack climbing at its best.

The anchor is two Rawl 5 piece bolts right under the roof.

Location

Splits the middle of the obvious blank wall.

Protection

(2) #0.5
(3-4) #0.75
(3-4) #1

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Psycho Killer is an amazing splitter up the otherwise blank and beautiful panel of rock. October 2014.
[Hide Photo] Psycho Killer is an amazing splitter up the otherwise blank and beautiful panel of rock. October 2014.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Josh Smith
  5.12
[Hide Comment] Information on who did the FA of this one would be appreciated. Oct 27, 2014
Josh Smith
  5.12
[Hide Comment] Thanks, Eric. Would be fun to know more history. What a difficult size--I couldn't decide between laybacking and climbing it straight on; pulling on cams ended up being the the most realistic strategy. Eager to get back on it. Nov 4, 2014
michalm
5.12+
[Hide Comment] This thing is burly. The combination of overhang, lean, offset, and bevel make this really difficult to jam and no easier to lieback. The crack also seems to pinch at the lip and open up inside, making jamming harder and resulting in gear that opens up as you climb past it.
Some red Metolius cams or 1.5 friends would be more useful than 0.5s after a body length, and black Metolius cams or 2 friends would be better than tippy 0.75s higher up. More like 12+ than 12. Nov 26, 2018