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Beasts of the Northern Wild
5.11d,
Trad, 130 ft (39 m),
Avg: 3 from 8
votes
FA: Josh Smith, Aaron Miller, Rich Strang
New Mexico
> Jemez Mountains…
> Capulin Canyon…
> Capulin Canyon
> Upper Wall
Description
Fingers laybacking to thin tips to thin hands. Varied and very entertaining.
Location
Next corner down from the obvious Zozobra/Burning Man alcove.
Protection
Set TCUs, 2 or 3 each 0.5-#1, (need 3-#1s for the thin hands) one #2. Selection of small nuts useful. Save a couple of 1s for the thin hands right before the anchor.
[Hide Photo] Haj finishing up the crux thin hands-the THIN stem section climbs into the shadow below him in center frame Beasts of the Northern Wild (5.11++)
Santa Fe, NM
The first pitch is 5.11 and starts with some big moves through several good .5 camalot placements to an easier slab that brings you to a roof block. Above you get some wild and technical movement where you have to fiddle a few small pieces in (#4 stopper and/or grey-C3). Amazing rock and fantastic climbing.
The second pitch is steep and powerful 11c that climbs through tight hands. A .4 camalot protects the first move well, but you have to reach to place it.
This route can be rapped with a single rope, watch your ends, a 60m is close. Nov 18, 2013
Santa Fe, NM
Nice job on the send Eric Nov 18, 2013