Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

The Emperor (aka Pea Soup)

5.11+, Trad, 105 ft (32 m),  Avg: 4 from 22 votes
FA: FFA: Tony Yaniro and Brett Maurer
California > Southern-Wester… > Southern Sierra… > Needles > Voodoo Dome

Description

This route was described by Randy Leavitt as, "The best crack at the Needles." Despite this description, the route seems to have fallen into Needles obscurity maybe due to the difficult approach, lack of an updated guidebook, and general difficulty of the climb. However, this route inspires the imagination and those who seek it out will not be disappointed.

The Emperor is a pure granite crack climb. As are most Needles routes, it is sustained in nature. The rock is spectacular, the gear is textbook, and the position is amazing. The first pitch can be top-roped (barely) with a 60m rope, although a 70m is recommended. The climb (Pea Soup) continues for several more pitches to the top, but only the first is described here.

Location

This route is located on the south face of Voodoo Dome. The start is difficult to find and explain - perhaps this is part of the adventure. It is possible to reach the base by foot on easy terrain. Once at the base of the cliff, most will choose to rope-up and approach the climb from climber's right, although it is possible to solo easily 5th class.

Protection

Natural protection with a two-bolt rappel anchor (1/2" SS). 

The anchor could use some help from anyone willing to switch out the fixed slings and biners for some chain and quick-links. 

To stay in character with the route I will not make any gear recommendations.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

splittersville!
[Hide Photo] splittersville!
Sending the emperor, summer 2007. Photo by [[105789549]].
[Hide Photo] Sending the emperor, summer 2007. Photo by Darshan Ahluwalia.
The Emperor, Voodoo Dome, The Needles (Photo: Aaron Cassebeer)
[Hide Photo] The Emperor, Voodoo Dome, The Needles (Photo: Aaron Cassebeer)
Aaron Cassebeer climbing The Emperor (Photo: Paisley Close)
[Hide Photo] Aaron Cassebeer climbing The Emperor (Photo: Paisley Close)
James going for the send!
[Hide Photo] James going for the send!
Jeff Gicklhorn, high on The Emperor, The Needles (Photo: Paisley Close)
[Hide Photo] Jeff Gicklhorn, high on The Emperor, The Needles (Photo: Paisley Close)
Jeff Gicklhorn climbing The Emperor, The Needles (Photo: Paisley Close)
[Hide Photo] Jeff Gicklhorn climbing The Emperor, The Needles (Photo: Paisley Close)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Does this need equal lengths chains? Uneven? 5 links ok or are the bolts far apart? Thanks!! Nov 4, 2013
Jeff Gicklhorn
Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] Luke: Needs equal length chains, but the bolts are ~18" apart so 5 links may be a little bit short. Definitely get up there! Nov 4, 2013
Aaron Cassebeer
Tehachapi, CA
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] A good thread on Supertopo with more information, see the comments section: Supertopo Thread supertopo.com/tr/Trip-Repor… Nov 5, 2013
Brian Feretic
Ocean Beach, CA
 
[Hide Comment] You will feel slightly lost at most times when trying to find this gem, but you'll eventually get there and it will be glorious! Worth the burly slog. It's intimidating but climbs easier than it appears. Best crack I ever climbed!

I don't believe a 60m is long enough for this route.

The bugs were heinous and unrelenting. Bug spray would have been wonderful.

Gets shade in the afternoon. Jul 7, 2019
Juan Vargas
Bakersfield, CA
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] Fantastic climb!
As of 9/19 the bolted anchors are in need of replacement. Sep 21, 2019
[Hide Comment] The anchor bolts on this pitch, as well as the following two "pitches", have been updated with 1/2" stainless courtesy the ASCA. Oct 28, 2019
William Leventhal
Calabasas
 
[Hide Comment] The 5.11c rating is only for the 1st pitch. The 2nd pitch is solid 5.12 stemming weirdness and certainly the crux of the climb. Above this, the difficulty eases greatly. Nov 26, 2019