The Emperor (aka Pea Soup)
5.11+,
Trad, 105 ft (32 m),
Avg: 4 from 22
votes
FA: FFA: Tony Yaniro and Brett Maurer
California
> Southern-Wester…
> Southern Sierra…
> Needles
> Voodoo Dome
Description
This route was described by Randy Leavitt as, "The best crack at the Needles." Despite this description, the route seems to have fallen into Needles obscurity maybe due to the difficult approach, lack of an updated guidebook, and general difficulty of the climb. However, this route inspires the imagination and those who seek it out will not be disappointed.
The Emperor is a pure granite crack climb. As are most Needles routes, it is sustained in nature. The rock is spectacular, the gear is textbook, and the position is amazing. The first pitch can be top-roped (barely) with a 60m rope, although a 70m is recommended. The climb (Pea Soup) continues for several more pitches to the top, but only the first is described here.
Location
This route is located on the south face of Voodoo Dome. The start is difficult to find and explain - perhaps this is part of the adventure. It is possible to reach the base by foot on easy terrain. Once at the base of the cliff, most will choose to rope-up and approach the climb from climber's right, although it is possible to solo easily 5th class.
Protection
Natural protection with a two-bolt rappel anchor (1/2" SS).
The anchor could use some help from anyone willing to switch out the fixed slings and biners for some chain and quick-links.
To stay in character with the route I will not make any gear recommendations.
[Hide Photo] The Emperor, Voodoo Dome, The Needles (Photo: Aaron Cassebeer)
[Hide Photo] Aaron Cassebeer climbing The Emperor (Photo: Paisley Close)
[Hide Photo] James going for the send!
[Hide Photo] Jeff Gicklhorn, high on The Emperor, The Needles (Photo: Paisley Close)
[Hide Photo] Jeff Gicklhorn climbing The Emperor, The Needles (Photo: Paisley Close)
Seattle, WA
Tucson, AZ
Tehachapi, CA
Ocean Beach, CA
I don't believe a 60m is long enough for this route.
The bugs were heinous and unrelenting. Bug spray would have been wonderful.
Gets shade in the afternoon. Jul 7, 2019
Bakersfield, CA
As of 9/19 the bolted anchors are in need of replacement. Sep 21, 2019
Calabasas