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Routes in The Mungolian Wall

Big Gulp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blue Angel S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Mike Roth, Paul Sullivan 1989
Page Views: 334 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jake Jones on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is a short, fun sport line that I found on my way out of Endless, headed toward the Cirque Ladders. It climbs dead vertical rock with a few thin moves with bad feet, interspersed with a couple good ledge holds to recover. Nothing special, but not terrible either. I was looking for something short and sweet at the end of the day to make sure I got my fill, and this short route fit the bill. It starts with sub 5.10 climbing to the first bolt for the first ten feet or so. After you clip the first bolt and get established on the face, the holds start getting smaller. The crux is just after the second bolt. There is also a thin move or two that takes you to the one bolt anchor.

Location

It's very easy to pass this nondescript line, which is why I did. I was looking specifically for it, so I was able to go back and locate it, but if you're not looking for it, odds are you won't find it. If you're moving in the direction from the Undeserved Area to Mungolian Wall and you get to the obvious dagger stalactite jutting out of the ground, you've gone too far. Look for a high roof before the stalactite. There is a short section of seemingly blank wall just before that roof. Blue Angel is the bolted route on that short wall. Just to the right of Blue Angel is a short finger crack called Blind Sight.

Protection

5 quickdraws: 4 bolts to a 1 bolt anchor. The hanger on the anchor bolt is a bit rusty, but the bolt is solid.

Photos

Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
 
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
 
Cool! Thanks for the history! Jan 22, 2015
P. Sully  
 
For the record:

the original Blue Angel was a trad line that climbed to the right 5' about where the 2nd bolt is now, and then went straight up passing a single bolt just before the top.

Mike Roth; on the first ascent attempt, led all the way to the top of the route and fell on the finishing mantle move. He fell 39'; ripping his top two placements, and was caught by a funky TCU just before he hit the deck 40' below.

The next day we placed a single bolt where the gear ripped and led the route. We named the route Blue Angel in honor of the air show on the FA attempt.

Doug Cosby later bolted the line just left of Blue Angel which climbs the same rock for the first two bolts, then his route goes straight up to the anchor.

not sure why he only put in one cold shut for the anchor. saving 5 bucks perhaps.

the trad corner Blood Doners (10d) starting on the ledge above is a worthy send; as is High Octane(10c), the arete to the left which has a few bolts. Jan 22, 2015