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Routes in Black Rain Wall

Black Rain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Husband is Going to Kill Me (aka. Start the Car) TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
pyscho-metric S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 780 total, 16/month
Shared By: Mike Nevko on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

This looks to be the old bomb route from the guide book. It now has glues-in to the top anchors. Start beside a pine tree and underneath a Roof. Make a move that requires effort. Be mindful for some loose rock, it has been cleaning up more in the past year.

Old death blocks have been removed.

Location

Left of Black Rain, starts by pine tree

Protection

8 Quickdraws + 2 bolt anchor

Photos

Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
 
Mike Nevko   Currently Charlotte
 
Thanks Bill, I updated the description to match again. Feb 28, 2014
Bill Webster
  5.11a
Bill Webster  
  5.11a
I went back and removed more of the loose rock. I think I got it all, but still pays to be careful around mid-height. Feb 28, 2014
Sarah Wolfe
Eugene, OR
Sarah Wolfe   Eugene, OR
The climb is more sustained if you stick straight with the bolt line and don't go off right. The difference between this line and the former "bomb" line is that it goes straight up - old line meandered off right towards the top, to get to a nice big sturdy tree, before anchors were there. And the glue-ins are wave bolts with epoxy, which are often even stronger than regular bolts, so don't let that chase you away! Really nice climb with lots of variety. Feb 25, 2014
Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
 
Mike Nevko   Currently Charlotte
 
Thank Bill and Hause, info has been updated. Jan 21, 2014
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.10+
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.10+
I believe there are 8 bolts + anchors. Crux is low on this one, then it's an easy cruise. Nov 18, 2013
Bill Webster
  5.11a
Bill Webster  
  5.11a
Death block was recently removed. The remaining loose block seems to be interlocked. Oct 30, 2013