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Routes in Sterling Pass

Bellyful of Moonshine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Best Laid Plans T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Confederacy of Dunces T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Counterfeit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Der Ficken (aka Jesus on a Rubber Cross) T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Do Wrong Right T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Heart and Soul S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Moonshiner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nobodys Dirty Business T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pocket full of Horses T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Safecracker- aka "Firecracker" T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sterling Sliver T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Burcham and Chris Tatum Oct. 2013
Page Views: 3,874 total, 78/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on Oct 28, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Heart and Soul ascends the prominent blunt arête on the east face of St. Christopher’s tower. This aesthetic spire was originally done via the north face A2 route, “The Well of Souls” in January of 1996 by Raimonde, Stih, Clark.

Heart and Soul is one of the finest sport spires anywhere and a true Burcham/Tatum masterpiece! The arrangement of fantastic climbing and a surreal location is sure to put this spire near the top of the list of classic Northern Arizona routes. While the climbing is thought provoking, it’s the sustained movement that will keep you hugging for hope as you make your way up 200ft of arête climbing. The quality of stone and the variety of holds makes Heart and Soul a stand out amongst the chossy and exciting nature of Oak Creek Canyon. Appreciate watching your partner follow this improbable and exposed blunt arête and don’t forget to find and sign the summit register.

P1 From the veranda, start up moderate terrain towards the first bolt 20ft above the belay. A solid finger sized Camelot can help protect the leader from a terrible tumble. After a brief warm up moment, cross from one side of the feature and back before making your way up steep and remarkable climbing. 5.11, 13 bolts.

P2 From the park bench of the belay stay warmed-up for second serving of steep and striking arête climbing to a bolted belay at the sub-summit. 5.11, 11 bolts.

If you desire, daintily make your way to the true summit, some parties may opt for staying roped up. 5 star view.

A two bolt rappel anchor is just to climbers right on the north face from the P2 belay. 2 single 60M rappels will get you back down to the veranda. Make sure not to miss the second 2 bolt rappel station off to the right on a mid-way ledge.



Location

From the Sterling Pass Trail Head walk for 30-45 min up towards the pass. St. Christopher tower will be visible early on in the hike. When the trail begins to get steep and begins to switchback look for the obvious break in the red wall on trail left. From this notch you can look south and stare straight at the arete of Heart and Soul. Take a path across some ledges and access a game trail that will contour a bowl directly to the veranda and the base of Heart and Soul.

Protection

13 quick draws of various lengths
.4 C4
.5 C4 optional
60M rope
K-Tanz
Phoenix, AZ
K-Tanz   Phoenix, AZ
Excellent and striking arête with solid rock the entire way, if not just a bit sandy in spots.

The approach is for real, with 45 brisk minutes of hiking straight up hill. After 45 minutes you will reach a large opening in the rock on trail left that puts the tower in a picture frame. If you summit the pass you have gone too far. From here prepare for 15-20 minutes of unmarked bush-whacking with dense foliage and a soft hillside. Make your way right around the bowl on ledges, trough bushes, and over and under fallen trees. The approach is not super dog friendly but I managed (and regretted it).

Pitch one is stout, in your face, and stays on you. Two or three tight finger sized cams right off the deck will save you from tumbling into the bushy abyss. No other gear except quickdraws required.

Pitch two is considerably easier and shorter than pitch one, and goes probably at 11b or 11c. May 19, 2017
Eric D
Gnarnia
 
Eric D   Gnarnia
 
An incredible route and certainly one of the best in Sedona. The summit register is full. If you are going to climb this please bring a rollable new register. The container is a tube so it needs to be able to be rolled up and placed in the tube. Mar 20, 2017
JimmyK
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JimmyK   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Fantastic Route. 2 striking and sustained pitches. 2 fun, snag-free raps with a single 60m rope. No sun on route during mid-day/afternoon (in January). Jan 22, 2014